head studs.......

[kidweld]

so, do you have to do any modification (drillin, tapping) when you buy headstuds??

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[IGOTACUMMINS]

@Double R Diesel LLC?

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[DRD]

I've only got experience with ARPs and they go right in without tapping or drilling. If the threads in the block are a little rough, then a simple thread chasing is all that may be needed. All they need to do is to reach the bottom for reference. You actually install head studs about a half a turn from the bottom.

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[kidweld]

thanks ya I was looking at em I didn understand why everyone didn do it if it was that simple but then I saw how much it costs $741 dollars http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/A1...-h11-studs.htm I couldn believe it. I know the arp is cheaper but why on earth is it hundreds of dollars????

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[DRD]

I've got over $1100 in a set of ARP 625s in my 2012 6.7. No sir they are not cheap...especially for ARP 625s. 425s are much more affordable, but once you torque a set of 625s you don't have to worry about them any more with most applications. Bottom line is that you will have to pay for high quality engine fasteners. They may be overpriced but you get what you pay for.

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[K-Sons]

Unless your doing big boost numbers (like 100 psi) the 425s will work fine

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[turboguy327]

I've heard you can install studs without a head removal? Is this true? Go in order of torque sequence or something?

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[DRD]

I've heard you can install studs without a head removal? Is this true? Go in order of torque sequence or something?

Yes you can. I did so.

http://igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=3534

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[chrisd91]

Install in order of torquing and do an initial torque of ~90, then work up from there. Make sure you use ARP lube and stud should not be bottomed in the block. Hot torques are not recommended for the integrity of the fastener, but can get more squish out of the gasket

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