If you can have it down for a few days we can always test the injectors for you so we know where they're at...
If you can have it down for a few days we can always test the injectors for you so we know where they're at...
It's my office out here. Currently maximum time it can be down is 2 days. I work (in a perfect world) 14 on 2 off. I'll see if I can get it down to Parks after work one of these days and have him put his scan tool on it.
Injector1.jpgInjector2.jpg
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect fuel injector.
(a) Look for burrs on injector inlet.
(b) Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging.
(c) Inspect end of nozzle for burrs or rough
machine marks.
(d) Look for cracks at nozzle end.
(e) Check nozzle color for signs of overheating.
Overheating will cause nozzle to turn a dark yellow/
tan or blue (depending on overheating temperature).
(f) If any of these conditions occur, replace injector.
(2) Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head
bore with special Cummins wire brush tool or equivalent
(Fig. 22). Blow out bore hole with compressed air.
(3) The bottom of fuel injector is sealed to cylinder
head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of a
certain thickness (Fig. 20). A new shim with correct
thickness must always be re-installed after removing
injector. Measure thickness of injector shim (Fig. 21).
Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”)
(4) Install new shim (washer) to bottom of injector.
Apply light coating of clean engine oil to washer. This
will keep washer in place during installation.
(5) Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply small
amount of clean engine oil to o-ring.
(6) Note fuel inlet port on high pressure connector.
This must be positioned towards intake manifold.
Position injector into cylinder head bore being
extremely careful not to allow injector tip to touch
sides of bore. Press fuel injector into cylinder head
with finger pressure only.
(7) Install fuel injector hold down clamp and hold
down bolts. Alternately tighten clamp bolts to 10 N·m
(89 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect injector solenoid wires and nuts to top
of injectors (Fig. 18). Tighten connector nuts to 1.5
N·m (14 in. lbs.). Be very careful not to overtighten
these nuts as damage to fuel injector
will occur.
(9) Install exhaust rocker arm assembly.
(10) Set exhaust valve lash. Refer to Engine.
(11) Install high pressure connector and its
retainer nut. Tighten nut to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(12) Install high pressure fuel line. Refer to Fuel
Line Installation.
(13) Install valve cover. Refer to Engine.
(14) Install breather assembly.
(15) Connect negative battery cables to both batteries
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Do appreciate that grumps, I know I can pull them and put them back in in a day... it's the sensing them off for testing and then getting them back that will take the longest. I'll look to see if there's a place local that can test. Other than that, I'll be seeing if I can stop by Parks shop after work one of these days to see what tests he can run with his computer.
I know where you are coming from.
I had the pleasure of speaking with Tim's contact with Bosch the other day. We were going over this MPG issue I am having. He agreed it should be better too.
Anyway, my point is, if you can work it out, I think you might be better to get them up to Tim for testing. There is overnight shipping. . . . Try to work it out. That is apparently a real Bosch shop. This guy is impressive.
But before you do that, have it run on a scan tool. It could be just one injector doing that. You better get on it though. It could hydrolock on you.
@AccurateDiesel
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
So got my injectors fixed, ya'll will never guess what was causing the problem/what fixed it.
Weak batteries! Put in a set of blue tops a couple days ago, not a bit of the grayish smoke, bumped my tuning back up to Ray's performance tune and all my smoke has been black as coal.
Well I never would have imagined! Glad she's alive and well!
Who'da thunk batteries could do that? I knew my batteries have been weak for a while now. they just finally got to the point where I had to bite the bullet and buy new ones. Truck starts easier again (1 second max of cranking vs 3-5 seconds it has been) fuel pump pressures up alot quicker...
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Nice!! Congrats man. Batteries are way cheaper than injectors
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
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