Banks Boost Tubes With 2nd Gen Swap

[Corkey]

I purchased the hot and cold side 3.5" boost tubes and installed them this evening.

I did what the instructions suggested, minus removing the fender wells.

I took the stock plastic cold side pipe off and the straight steel hot side pipe off "came with the 2g kit."

I noticed that the Banks pipe was a bit longer with a rise or dip in the pipe, which wouldn't align up either direction "as it's fit for the VGT location."

Little irritated it wouldn't work and paid for a nice pipe with no use. ;\.

As for just the cold side installed with a factory intercooler, the truck has a punch just for a bigger pipe.

Quickly hit 36.36 lbs with ease.

Mid to low 80s here, coolant temp hit 192, max EGT on WOT hit 808°.

I suggest the cold side for those looking for this upgrade with the 2G swap.

Next will be the Banks intercooler to crisp up the intake temps.

I've read a bit on folks saying just the pipes alone won't make a difference; I can call bs to the full extent.

Venturi effect, as pressure decreases, "bigger pipe \ less restriction" velocity increases and vice versa.

I was skeptical about how boost would drop, but for my rig, it seems every day driving; it's a touch lower, but mid to WOT, it will spool up quicker than it used to.

As far as a tone, you'll hear a deeper rumble and the turbo much easier with hardly any throttle.

I run AGP'S T51R compressor housing, intensifying the whistle a ton more.

I hope this will help out a member or two down the road.

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[AK Bob]

Thanks for the write-up; sorry, the hot side didn’t fit with your 2nd Gen swap.

Pleased to hear the cold side made a noticeable difference.

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[watersupply189]

Thanks for the update, buddy.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[MechEngineer17]

I purchased the hot and cold side 3.5" boost tubes and installed them this evening.

I did what the instructions suggested, minus removing the fender wells.

I took the stock plastic cold side pipe off and the straight steel hot side pipe off "came with the 2g kit."

I noticed that the Banks pipe was a bit longer as well with a rise or dip in the pipe, which wouldn't align up either direction "as it's fit for the VGT location."

Little irritated it wouldn't work and paid for a nice pipe with no use. ;\.

As for just the cold side installed with a factory intercooler, the truck has a punch just for a bigger pipe.

Easily hit 36.36 lbs with ease.

Mid to low 80s here, coolant temp hit 192, max EGT on WOT hit 808°.

I would suggest just the cold side for those of you looking for this upgrade with the 2G swap.

Next will be the Banks intercooler to crisp up the intake temps.

I've read a bit on folks saying just the pipes alone won't make a difference; I can call bs to the full extent.

Venturi effect, as pressure decreases, "bigger pipe \ less restriction" velocity increases and vice versa.

I was skeptical about how boost would drop, but for my rig, it seems everyday driving; it's a touch lower, but mid to WOT, it will spool up quicker than it used to.

As far as a tone, you'll hear a deeper rumble and the turbo much easier with hardly any throttle.

I run AGP'S T51R compressor housing, so it intensifies the whistle a ton more.

I hope this will help out a member or two down the road.

This is a helpful write-up; you couldn't have said it any better!

Bernoulli's Principle applies no matter the size or application.

Some people may not be as "in tune" with their vehicle, so they may not notice the difference!

This is good info, though!

I would love to 2nd gen swap my 17, but I am worried about the stock trans at the moment.

So I am getting all the info I can on a parts list, and slowly piece buy.

This couldn't have come at a better time!


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[Corkey]

By doing the 2g swap, your transmission should be ready.

If you think it's on its way out, that's a different story.

It's when big injectors and bigger turbo come into play, is when the trans could struggle.

Head studs 425s or 625s are a must-have.

OEM head gasket and exhaust studs "easier hanging the manifold."

For S464, you'll be OK with stock injectors and CP3.

For S467, you'll want the 10M CP3 with bigger injectors.

I'd go with BBI 1.5'S." revision from the doc, then your set.

The 1.5's are good, up to 800-850 RWHP.

The doc has plenty of room to play with parameters for the duration.

I know this was for the Banks boost tubes, but I'll help with what I can for a member.

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[MechEngineer17]

By doing the 2g swap, your transmission should be ready.

If you think it's on its way out, that's a different story.

It's when big injectors and bigger turbo come into play, is when the trans could struggle.

Head studs 425s or 625s are a must-have.

OEM head gasket and exhaust studs "easier hanging the manifold."

For S464, you'll be OK with stock injectors and CP3.

For S467, you'll want the 10M CP3 with bigger injectors.

I'd go with BBI 1.5'S." revision from the doc, then your set.

The 1.5's are good, up to 800-850 RWHP.

The doc has plenty of room to play with parameters for the duration.

I know this was for the Banks boost tubes, but I'll help with what I can for a member.

Thank you, this is perfect.

My trans seems healthy at the moment, about 87k on the truck.

I do it daily, but I run a 120hp tune currently, and it runs great.

I love the idea of a second-gen swap.

My biggest dilemma is the turbo sizing.

I daily the truck majority, but occasionally, it may pull at most an 8-10k pound trailer(wake boat).

I would love to build a 600-700 hp truck, but I want to do it once; I'm trying not to find out later I should have done XYZ instead.

Also, when upgrading everything said, would a 5" exhaust benefit me over my current 4" straight pipe?

My thinking is less back pressure and faster exhaust evacuation.


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[Corkey]

Thank you, this is perfect.

My trans seems healthy at the moment, about 87k on the truck.

I do it daily, but I run a 120hp tune currently, and it runs great.

I love the idea of a second-gen swap.

My biggest dilemma is the turbo sizing.

I daily the truck majority, but occasionally, it may pull at most an 8-10k pound trailer(wake boat).

I would love to build a 600-700 hp truck, but I want to do it once; I'm trying not to find out later I should have done XYZ instead.

Also, when upgrading everything said, would a 5" exhaust benefit me over my current 4" straight pipe?

My thinking is less back pressure and faster exhaust evacuation.


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I have the 464 for personal use; I should have gone with the 467; I don't tow heavy.

With that said, the 464 performance is terrific.

It has excellent power curves from start to finish.

It pulls hard, tremendous relief on EGTs, drive pressure, sound, and no electronics to hold you back.

I know we have several members here with the 467 that tow heavy and are pleased with their setup.

Either way, you'll be happy in either direction you go.

Companies will strongly suggest injectors for any size S400 series chargers, which could be a sales pitch, but for the 464, you'll be fine.

The 467, you'll also be ok; you won't get the full potential or money's worth from the charger.

You could piece the truck together, but you'll be paying for 1 or 2 more additional revisions.

It's better to do it all at once.

I forgot to add the FASS or AIRDOG for the parts you want for the swap.

It is a bit of a pain, but SO well worth it.

The swap calls for X amount of fuel from the tank to the CP3; the stock unit can only provide Y amount, thus leaving Z " fuel rail " with a lesser amount to injectors.

It wouldn't be an issue with lower power levels, but on 200HP, it may drop on its face; I'm not sure.

The ease of swapping water and fuel filters only takes 1 min to swap out.

To the 4 to 5" question, to the point of HP, you'll need to increase to the 5" to gain more power.

I run the 5" TBE straight piped, I will lose a little low end just because you have virtually no back pressure to spool down low, but you'll gain more top end.

I'll throw on my jamo muffler "To quiet" during hunting season; I notice a lot of difference on the low end because it supplies a little more back pressure.

I like the sound of 5" over 4", but it's my preference until you hit significant power levels.

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[MechEngineer17]

I have the 464 for personal use; I should have gone with the 467; I don't tow heavy.

With that said, the 464 performance is terrific.

It has excellent power curves from start to finish.

It pulls hard, tremendous relief on EGTs, drive pressure, sound, and no electronics to hold you back.

I know we have several members here with the 467 that tow heavy and are pleased with their setup.

Either way, you'll be happy in either direction you go.

Companies will strongly suggest injectors for any size S400 series chargers, which could be a sales pitch, but for the 464, you'll be fine.

The 467, you'll also be ok; you won't get the full potential or money's worth from the charger.

You could piece the truck together, but you'll be paying for 1 or 2 more additional revisions.

It's better to do it all at once.

I forgot to add the FASS or AIRDOG for the parts you want for the swap.

It is a bit of a pain, but SO well worth it.

The swap calls for X amount of fuel from the tank to the CP3; the stock unit can only provide Y amount, thus leaving Z" fuel rail" with a lesser amount to injectors.

It wouldn't be an issue with lower power levels, but on 200HP, it may drop on its face; I'm not sure.

The ease of swapping water and fuel filters only takes 1 min to swap out.

To the 4 to 5" question, to the point of HP, you'll need to increase to the 5" to gain more power.

I run the 5" TBE straight piped, I will lose a little low end just because you have virtually no back pressure to spool down low, but you'll gain more top end.

I'll throw on my jamo muffler "To quiet" during hunting season; I notice a lot of difference on the low end because it supplies a little more back pressure.

I like the sound of 5" over 4", but it's my preference until you hit significant power levels.

I've been playing with the idea of swapping to a 5" TBE here before fall because I agree I love the sound.

You make a strong argument for the S464, which sounds good.

I want something fun and reliable and can pull a bit if needed.

The S467 turbos seem fantastic, but as much as I would love a "race truck," LOL, I don't need one daily.

You motivate me to start building my parts list, and I'll begin to piece buying so I'll have everything I need at once, and I can do only one tune revision, as you mentioned.

I have one last question that has been on my mind.

I think I am way overthinking, but going from 4" to 5" would not require a retune, correct?

I feel the gains from 4 to 5 are insufficient to require tuning, but I could be wrong.


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[MechEngineer17]

Also, Im hoping my question didn’t stray too far from the original section, being I asked about a 17, and this is not that section.

I’m hoping it was general enough!


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[Corkey]

I've been playing with the idea of swapping to a 5" TBE here before fall because I agree I love the sound.

You make a strong argument for the S464, which sounds good.

I want something fun and reliable and can pull a bit if needed.

The S467 turbos seem fantastic, but as much as I would love a "race truck," LOL, I don't need one daily.

You motivate me to start building my parts list, and I'll begin to piece buying so I'll have everything I need at once, and I can do only one tune revision, as you mentioned.

I have one last question that has been on my mind.

I think I am way overthinking, but going from 4" to 5" would not require a retune, correct?

I feel the gains from 4 to 5 are insufficient to require tuning, but I could be wrong.

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Changing from 4" to 12" exhaust will not require any tuning.

If your stock, EGR, SCR, DPF, DEF, that's when the tune is needed to swap the exhaust out.

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