6.7L Cummins Billet Valve Cover Install?

[C-MAN]

Hello friends, I've had a D&J billet valve cover sitting in my pile of parts for a while now.

I haven't installed it yet because of two questions I've had.

My first question is about removing the CCV sensor on the factory valve cover.

Will removing this sensor set a check engine light? And does it require added tuning to eliminate a check engine light if one is selected?

My second question is whether the transmission dipstick won't have a secure mountable place once I put the billet cover on.

I am currently 2nd Gen swapped, so I have the little brushed aluminum tab that runs from the back of the upper cover to the dipstick.

The dipstick is loose in the tube, so I would like it to remain attached to something so it doesn't rattle out.

I found that Glacier Diesel sells a dipstick mount for this setup, but their dipstick bracket will only work on a factory-style exhaust manifold with the factory stud bolt with the two nuts on it.

I am running a steed speed with the Fleece stud kit, which puts the bolt too close to the head for it to reach.

If I can't find a pre-made bracket, I might have to get creative and make one.

Any ideas and input are much appreciated.

The truck is a 2015 running EFI live at the moment.

Thank you, and I apologize in advance for the short book I wrote.

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[AK Bob]

From my research, no trouble codes or check engine lights were generated by removing the CCV filter sensor before the 2019+ model year.

You will need to fabricate or modify a bracket for the dipstick.

Please keep us posted and attach some photos of your installation.

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[C-MAN]

From my research, no trouble codes or check engine lights were generated by removing the CCV filter sensor before the 2019+ model year.

You will need to fabricate or modify a bracket for the dipstick.

Please keep us posted and attach some photos of your installation.

Thank you for the information regarding the CCV sensor.

That atleast lets me know that the electronic portion is good to go!

I will figure out how to get the dipstick mounted back to the engine somehow, and I will report back with pics and specs of what I come up with so it can help someone else on their build.

I sincerely appreciate all of you kind folks in this cummins community!

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[OneTon]

Heads up, the crankcase pressure sensor is in the old valve cover and must be tuned out.

Otherwise, you'll throw a code.

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[AK Bob]

Heads up, the crankcase pressure sensor is in the old valve cover and must be tuned out.

Otherwise, you'll throw a code.

Thanks for this new information.

I had checked several websites and YouTube videos and their comments, and they all said no codes.

@C-MAN sounds like codes could be a possibility, but can be tuned out.

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[C-MAN]

Thanks for the heads up.

I appreciate it!

I will go ahead and put the cover on next week and see what codes it throws, and I will report back what happens.

Cheers!

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[Chrisn162001]

Thanks for the heads up.

I appreciate it!

I will go ahead and put the cover on next week and see what codes it throws, and I will report back what happens.

Cheers!

Before I had the sensors tuned out, I left them plugged in but tied off to the side, and it would throw a code occasionally under heavy acceleration.

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[C-MAN]

The valve cover came with AG 200 3/4 inch hose.

Which I'm assuming is a general-purpose farm hose for multiple fluids and uses.

I want to use a 5/8 inch push lock hose like FASS uses with push lock fittings.

Do you know if -10 fittings and 5/8 inch push lock hose will be sufficient ventilation for the crankcase?

I guess anything will be better than the factory filter with the elbow and breather, but I figured I'd ask just to be safe.

The 5/8 push lock hose has an inner diameter of 0.60", close to 5/8 inner diameter but not quite.

Thank you so much for your attention and participation.

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[Chrisn162001]

The valve cover came with AG 200 3/4 inch hose.

Which I'm assuming is a general-purpose farm hose for multiple fluids and uses.

I want to use a 5/8 inch push lock hose like FASS uses with push lock fittings.

Do you know if -10 fittings and 5/8 inch push lock hose will be sufficient ventilation for the crankcase?

I guess anything will be better than the factory filter with the elbow and breather, but I figured I'd ask just to be safe.

The 5/8 push lock hose has an inner diameter of 0.60", close to 5/8 inner diameter but not quite.

Thank you so much for your attention and participation.

I'd stick to 3/4 or -12an since it's a single outlet.

The factory setup used a vacuum to evacuate crankcase pressure.

With atmosphere-vented setups, the bigger the hose, the better, so you don't build up crankcase pressure.

I'm running dual -12 to a catch can set up, but I'm using a bean machine valve cover.


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[C-MAN]

I'd stick to 3/4 or -12an since it's a single outlet.

The factory setup used a vacuum to evacuate crankcase pressure.

With atmosphere-vented setups, the bigger the hose, the better, so you don't build up crankcase pressure.

I'm running dual -12 to a catch can set up, but I'm using a bean machine valve cover.

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My gut told me to go to -12 an so I'm glad I asked.

I had all this -10 an stuff lying around and was trying to use it up.

When I got the fittings laid out and was looking at the inner diameter, the 10 just seemed awfully small.

Thanks for your advice and knowledge.

I really appreciate it!

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