21 RAM 3500 HO Aisin - Fueling Or Tuning Issue?

[Neal]

Members, I’m having some issues with my truck and trying to eliminate if it’s mechanical or turning.

Currently running CCS 0hp and had Proven as well.

My problem is that stuttering starts at idle and stalling at high idle or while driving.

I’m noticing injection pressure surges higher and sometimes drops drastically low when this occurs.

For some reason, on the CCS file, I have to unplug the EGR and throttle valve sensors for them not to be active on the file that runs the best.

Only the unplugged sensors are plugged in when I have these issues, and the truck runs fine from what I can tell.

I do notice that with Proven if sensors are plugged in or not, the EGR and throttle valve is disengaged, the EGR is completely closed, and the throttle valve is open 100%.

With Proven, it does a similar thing but only more frequently and 50% more drastic.

I can’t run the CCS file with sensors plugged in because I believe there’s an EGR cooler leak.

I notice a haze of white smoke from the exhaust on start-ups, and it takes a while to clear up, usually after the truck has warmed up entirely, but it’s every start-up after the truck has sat for a time.

I have the truck in the shop for three and a half weeks.

The shop has helped try to figure out the issue, even working with the tuning company, but it’s like DDC/CCS is at the point of really not knowing what the case may be and getting more sluggish with trying to figure it out.

So, I’m posting here in hopes someone has or knows someone who has had a similar issue.

Also, the shop is leaning towards the “FCA” going bad, but they don’t want to guess and throw parts at it if it doesn’t fix the issue.

The only major work done to the truck is the dealership replaced the camshaft and lifters due to the “typewriter tick,” but it’s still ticking.

I wonder if something was wrong when they reassembled the truck or something with the injectors.

Sorry for the lengthy post.

I do not know what to do and must solve this issue quickly to provide for my family.

Any experiences or educated guess concerning this is greatly appreciated.


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[watersupply189]

Are any codes popping up?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Corkey]

A quick way to check on the CP3 pump is to unplug the only electric wire of the CP3.

Before starting the rig, configure the rail pressure P.I.D. on the monitor.

Once it is displayed, start the rig up, but don't hit the throttle.

Unplugging the wire on the back disengages the F.C.A. " fuel control actuator," allowing the rail to get max pressure at idle.

It will sound way different; it won't hurt me anything doing this.

You should see a maximum pressure of 26 to 28k.

If it's below that 25k by a margin, the F.C.A. is usually bad, but depending on how many miles you have on the pump, it could be time for a new one.

F.C.A., typically, is the cheapest route to fix the issue if the pressure is weak.

Get the psi reading, turn it off, and reconnect the power wire for the F.C.A.

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[Neal]

Are any codes popping up?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

None on the particular file that runs the best on other files, yes, U0002 & U0140.

I cleared them, and it didn’t come back


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[Neal]

A quick way to check on the CP3 pump is to unplug the only electric wire of the CP3.

Before starting the rig, configure the rail pressure P.I.D. on the monitor.

Once it is displayed, start the rig up, but don't hit the throttle.

Unplugging the wire on the back disengages the F.C.A. "fuel control actuator," allowing the rail to get max pressure at idle.

It will sound way different; it won't hurt me anything doing this.

You should see a maximum pressure of 26 to 28k.

If it's below that 25k by a margin, the F.C.A. is usually bad, but depending on how many miles you have on the pump, it could be time for a new one.

F.C.A., typically, is the cheapest route to fix the issue if the pressure is weak.

Get the psi reading, turn it off, and reconnect the power wire for the F.C.A.

Okay, I will have the shop try this if they already haven't.

The truck has about 65k miles on it now.


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[Mikesinkbeil]

Either way, I wouldn't let CCS or Proven tune my toaster.

Same with Optimal Welding.

All those Canadian tunes suck, IMO.

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[Neal]

Either way, I wouldn't let CCS or Proven tune my toaster.

Same with Optimal Welding.

All those Canadian tunes suck, IMO.

Any experiences with them?

I'm still learning.

It seems to be more like brain surgery when it comes to really getting the tunes dialed in on specific newer model trucks.


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[Mikesinkbeil]

Any experiences with them?

I'm still learning.

It seems to be more like brain surgery when it comes to really getting the tunes dialed in on specific newer model trucks.

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Yes, awful.

I use someone in the states, but it would be best if you used Ray here at DRD.

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[Neal]

Yes, awful.

I use someone in the states, but it would be best if you used Ray here at DRD.

That’s my plan.

I wish I had known before I started spending money.


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