Heater Slow?

[jgruberman]

I wasn't sure if the Genos filter was causing an issue or not.

I just put it back in, and there doesn't seem to be as drastic an airflow loss as I was expecting.

I've only had it installed for maybe a month or two, which is already what it looks like.

I think this is partly due to my exhaust flange leak under the hood.

I'm pretty sure the pipe directly connecting to the turbo has a crack and is causing the exhaust smell in the cab, and I assume what I'm looking at is soot, maybe.

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[jgruberman]

Does the core and coil need to be disconnected to be able to remove the dash?

Or can I pull the dash and clean those components without breaking the two lines?

Having to redo the coolant and AC lines kept me from working on the dash.

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[AK Bob]

Does the core and coil need to be disconnected to be able to remove the dash?

Or can I pull the dash and clean those components without breaking the two lines?

Having to redo the coolant and AC lines kept me from working on the dash.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

You can pull the dash without pulling the heater box, but you will need to pull the heater box to split it and access the heater and evaporator coils to clean them.

Check out the City Mechanic videos in post #19 for more information.

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[jgruberman]

I'm checking in on this after I've had time to do other things.

Are there any thoughts as to what my problem still might be?

I cleaned the evaporator coil, and it may have made a little bit of difference, but it was not substantial.

I hear the blower going very strongly, but I don't feel a lot of airflow at any temperature.

I'm hoping that because this problem occurs on all temperature ranges from 60 to 90, it isn't necessarily heater core-specific

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[timshooter40]

It's probably an actuator problem.

If you're not getting air blowing where it should, it is an actuator.

You can get to a code without pulling a dash, but not all.

With a 9-volt battery and some jumper wires, you can unplug and test each actuator, and you can save money by purchasing any that don't work on Amazon.

Unfortunately, I have pulled my dash thrice for heater core issues.

I have it down to 8 hours now,

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[jgruberman]

It's probably an actuator problem.

If you're not getting air blowing where it should, it is an actuator.

You can get to a code without pulling a dash, but not all.

With a 9-volt battery and some jumper wires, you can unplug and test each actuator, and you can save money by purchasing any that don't work on Amazon.

Unfortunately, I have pulled my dash thrice for heater core issues.

I have it down to 8 hours now,

Any suggestions for where I should start to look for actuators?

Or any clue based on the trouble?

There isn't much airflow out of any of the vents.

Does that point to a specific actuator location-wise?

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[sootmaster]

Hello all.

BG Has an evaporator service kit the foam they use will start to dissolve most dirt and then the water forming on the core will wash over time.

Also there are supply's from your local heater air for your home ac and condenser coil cleaning.

Your pictures are of a HEAVY contamination require the removal for best or access the case on the plenum side and with compressed air blower blow reverse air on evaporator till you get the material off, Noted in the fins deep in there are lots of material clogging your air flow.

My truck was icing up due to evaporator coil like yours even though ice vent temp i was sweating!! Not enough air flow across the evaporator temp sensor.

Being careful your going to have to split the case with out removing the dash. takes time and over and over. slow process.

your not going to clean years of caked-up from blower side! Believe me I have tried, I split the case and made a air-blower nozzle and blew air backwards meaning air from heater side to blower,, NOT through the heater core.

For week heat meaning not hot enough, test the hoses first with engine hot meaning you can not hold onto hose both side should be HOT.

If hose not hot then thermostat, If one side cooler then core is restricted ether from coolant silicone separation breaking down will clog core 1- reverse hoses and rerun for a time 2- blow compressed air through the core back wards!! cup cloth and see what is in core address with what you find rust-slim-rubber so forth.

If Hoses are real HOT then test temp-door.
Best way to test Temp-Blend door is to put blower on HI adjust full cold then hot back and forth if air flow drop mostly when going to HEAT then door is moving.

I my experiences evaporator core catches most if not ALL so I have not ever found Heater core clog with hair, or other material like the evaporator.

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[sootmaster]

RAM AC designs have an EVAPORATOR Temp sensor, which requires air to blow across the sensor's open area like a map sensor.

With a restricted core in your picture, this sensor will not read correctly.

2- If the sensor is incorrect, then with AC ON, It will form Ice on the blower side.

Test by running the system for some time with recur on, meaning the blower is getting s=air flow from inside the cab.

After the period and you feel less air, pop the hood open and see the larger line off the evaporator suction line most likely will be frosted over white with ice.

This means the PCM is not turning the compressor off s=due to the evap-temp-sensor reading hotter the actual evaporator temp

I feel all your problems are clogged evap with dirt.

As they say, life is DIRTY, so clean it up, LOL

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[jgruberman]

Hello all.

BG Has an evaporator service kit the foam they use will start to dissolve most dirt and then the water forming on the core will wash over time.

Also there are supply's from your local heater air for your home ac and condenser coil cleaning.

Your pictures are of a HEAVY contamination require the removal for best or access the case on the plenum side and with compressed air blower blow reverse air on evaporator till you get the material off, Noted in the fins deep in there are lots of material clogging your air flow.

My truck was icing up due to evaporator coil like yours even though ice vent temp i was sweating!! Not enough air flow across the evaporator temp sensor.

Being careful your going to have to split the case with out removing the dash. takes time and over and over. slow process.

your not going to clean years of caked-up from blower side! Believe me I have tried, I split the case and made a air-blower nozzle and blew air backwards meaning air from heater side to blower,, NOT through the heater core.

For week heat meaning not hot enough, test the hoses first with engine hot meaning you can not hold onto hose both side should be HOT.

If hose not hot then thermostat, If one side cooler then core is restricted ether from coolant silicone separation breaking down will clog core 1- reverse hoses and rerun for a time 2- blow compressed air through the core back wards!! cup cloth and see what is in core address with what you find rust-slim-rubber so forth.

If Hoses are real HOT then test temp-door.
Best way to test Temp-Blend door is to put blower on HI adjust full cold then hot back and forth if air flow drop mostly when going to HEAT then door is moving.

I my experiences evaporator core catches most if not ALL so I have not ever found Heater core clog with hair, or other material like the evaporator.

Yeah, I'm not sure what you're describing is really relevant, and it was very difficult to follow the sentences regardless.

I have no air flow on either temp, blend doors work fine behind the glovebox.

No icing of anything.

Already used A/C coil cleaner.

Thanks, though, for your input.

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[sootmaster]

Hey, no problem.

All good!!

Have a good one, just suggestions.

Take care.

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