CEL With A Mess Of Codes?

[ddsneversummer]

Hello!

I bought a 2015 3500 4x4, Laramie Longhorn, CCLB, Dually, Aisin at the end of September.

It has all of the miles (337k).

I know the DEF/exhaust pipe has been deleted (no cat bulge or anything from the turbo back; def gauge shows empty), and there are no error codes there, so it must have a 'tune' on it.

The EGR is still connected, but I assume the tune has stopped the EGR System.

Service records seemed good, and on the 1,400-mile drive home, it ran perfectly (North Carolina to Wisconsin, then to North Dakota).

As the temperature has been dropping here in North Dakota, if I start it 'cold' (below 40, after sitting all night), I get a CEL with a mess of codes.

The CEL goes away on the 4th drive cycle, but it isn't enjoyable while it is there.

It seems a little slow, but I haven't had it long, so I don't have a frame of reference.

Also, when the engine is cold (20 degrees), there is a hefty 'lope' both in sound and when in drive/idle speed through a parking lot; it goes away quickly, but maybe that is something that shouldn't be there.

Codes are:
P007D - Charge Air Cooler Temp Sensor Circuit High
P0102 - MAF Circuit or Low Voltage
P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit High
P0193 - Fuel Pressure Sensor High (Circuit A)
P04E2 - Crankcase Pressure Sensor Low Circuit
P0607 - Powertrain Control Module Performance
P1193 - Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage High
P2281 - Air leak between MAF and Throttle Body
U0001 - High Speed Can Communication BUS
U010E - Loss Communication with Redundant Control Module
U110E - Ambient Temp Sensor

When I pull the codes (using a cheap odbii and the Torque app), they usually all show 'Historic Fault,' but tonight, I saw that P0607 and U010E were showing 'Current Fault.'

These showed 'Current Fault' tonight, even with the CEL gone (4th drive cycle).

So, to troubleshoot this, I am planning to
Check battery connections (Done, re-seated the pegs).

Check battery voltage when running (Done; both batteries showed 13.7V).

Check battery voltage when off.

Check fuses (done, but it was getting dark so I will double-check tomorrow).

Check harness side voltage at the sensors (vehicle 'on' but not started/running?)

Replace sensors if harness side voltage is suitable.

Check Wires/harness if the voltage is bad.

My real concern is with the P0607, U010E, and U0001.

They seem to lean more towards the PCM/ECM/ECU.

Is there a way to check this or any other tips?

Also, since mine is 'tuned,' I am guessing if I have the PCM flashed, I will need to buy a tuner and get a new tune.

Especially since I don't have the DEF stuff.

I appreciate the time anyone takes to read this.

If I'm missing some information or something, please let me know, and I will do my best to find it.

Thank you!
-DDS Never Summer

 0 Comment(s)

[watersupply189]

Hello!

I bought a 2015 3500 4x4, Laramie Longhorn, CCLB, Dually, Aisin at the end of September.

It has all of the miles (337k).

I know the DEF/exhaust pipe has been deleted (no cat bulge or anything from the turbo back; def gauge shows empty), and there are no error codes there, so it must have a 'tune' on it.

The EGR is still connected, but I assume the tune has stopped the EGR System.

Service records seemed good, and on the 1,400-mile drive home, it ran perfectly (North Carolina to Wisconsin, then to North Dakota).

As the temperature has been dropping here in North Dakota, if I start it 'cold' (below 40, after sitting all night), I get a CEL with a mess of codes.

The CEL goes away on the 4th drive cycle, but it isn't enjoyable while it is there.

It seems a little slow, but I haven't had it long, so I don't have a frame of reference.

Also, when the engine is cold (20 degrees), there is a hefty 'lope' both in sound and when in drive/idle speed through a parking lot; it goes away quickly, but maybe that is something that shouldn't be there.

Codes are:
P007D - Charge Air Cooler Temp Sensor Circuit High
P0102 - MAF Circuit or Low Voltage
P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit High
P0193 - Fuel Pressure Sensor High (Circuit A)
P04E2 - Crankcase Pressure Sensor Low Circuit
P0607 - Powertrain Control Module Performance
P1193 - Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage High
P2281 - Air leak between MAF and Throttle Body
U0001 - High Speed Can Communication BUS
U010E - Loss Communication with Redundant Control Module
U110E - Ambient Temp Sensor

When I pull the codes (using a cheap odbii and the Torque app), they usually all show 'Historic Fault,' but tonight, I saw that P0607 and U010E were showing 'Current Fault.'

These showed 'Current Fault' tonight, even with the CEL gone (4th drive cycle).

So, to troubleshoot this, I am planning to
Check battery connections (Done, re-seated the pegs).

Check battery voltage when running (Done; both batteries showed 13.7V).

Check battery voltage when off.

Check fuses (done, but it was getting dark so I will double-check tomorrow).

Check harness side voltage at the sensors (vehicle 'on' but not started/running?)

Replace sensors if harness side voltage is suitable.

Check Wires/harness if the voltage is bad.

My real concern is with the P0607, U010E, and U0001.

They seem to lean more towards the PCM/ECM/ECU.

Is there a way to check this or any other tips?

Also, since mine is 'tuned,' I am guessing if I have the PCM flashed, I will need to buy a tuner and get a new tune.

Especially since I don't have the DEF stuff.

I appreciate the time anyone takes to read this.

If I'm missing some information or something, please let me know, and I will do my best to find it.

Thank you!
-DDS Never Summer

Try doing a load test individually on each battery.

These trucks require a lot of juice, and if you have one or both batteries with weak cell, it will throw all kinds of codes.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

 0 Comment(s)

[ddsneversummer]

Try doing a load test individually on each battery.

These trucks require a lot of juice, and if you have one or both batteries with weak cell, it will throw all kinds of codes.

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Thank you for the prompt reply!

Just for clarity: Turn the engine off, turn the headlights on for a few minutes, and check each battery.

Should it be 12.4V and higher?

And leave everything connected, or should I disconnect the battery after headlights are on, before tossing the multimeter on there?

 0 Comment(s)

[watersupply189]

Thank you for the prompt reply!

Just for clarity: Turn the engine off, turn the headlights on for a few minutes, and check each battery.

Should it be 12.4V and higher?

And leave everything connected, or should I disconnect the battery after the headlights are on before tossing the multimeter on there?

Disconnect your batteries and then test.

It is best if you have a battery load tester.

Also, check the batteries after sitting all night to see if the voltage drops.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Try doing a load test individually on each battery.

These trucks require a lot of juice, and if you have one or both batteries with weak cell, it will throw all kinds of codes.

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Sounds like you have a lot going on.

I agree with the advice posted above to load-test both batteries individually.

Low battery voltage at startup can cause many different codes and symptoms.

Just looking at the three codes that you were currently concerned about, they could be tuning-related.

See the attached information on those codes.

As you know, the U010E code is for the DEF System, which should already be tuned out.

The P0607 code may also be tuning related to the injector “on” time.

If the U0001 code is an active stored code, it may be a CAN BUS C issue.

I realize we have only just scratched the surface so far.

You are on the right track to start with battery condition and voltage.

Then, look for some new tuning.

Please keep us posted and let us know if you need similar information on other codes that are not resolved as you continue to troubleshoot.

We are here to help as best we can.

 0 Comment(s)

[ddsneversummer]

Disconnect your batteries and then test.

It is best if you have a battery load tester.

Also, check the batteries after sitting all night to see if the voltage drops.

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Any recommendations on a load tester?

I'll pick up the Schumacher Battery Load Tester — 6/12 Volt, Model# BT-100 from Northern Tool tomorrow morning.

Thanks again!

 0 Comment(s)

[ddsneversummer]

Sounds like you have a lot going on.

I agree with the advice posted above to load-test both batteries individually.

Low battery voltage at startup can cause many different codes and symptoms.

Just looking at the three codes that you were currently concerned about, they could be tuning-related.

See the attached information on those codes.

As you know, the U010E code is for the DEF System, which should already be tuned out.

The P0607 code may also be tuning related to the injector "on" time.

If the U0001 code is an active stored code, it may be a CAN BUS C issue.

I realize we have only just scratched the surface so far.

You are on the right track to start with battery condition and voltage.

Then, look for some new tuning.

Please keep us posted and let us know if you need similar information on other codes that are not resolved as you continue to troubleshoot.

We are here to help as best we can.

I appreciate the help! I was going to buy the MM3/DRD tuning in early 2024, but maybe I'll bite the bullet and order them now.

I'll probably order the sensors now, too; worst case, I sit on those as spares.

MM3/DRD is still the recommended tuner/tuner correct?

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Any recommendations on a load tester?

I'll pick up the Schumacher Battery Load Tester — 6/12 Volt, Model# BT-100 from Northern Tool tomorrow morning.

Thanks again!

I am not familiar with the BT-100.

I have the Auto Meter SB-300 battery tested, and it does a nice job.

Most battery shops and auto stores will usually do a free load test.

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

I appreciate the help! I was going to buy the MM3/DRD tuning in early 2024, but maybe I'll bite the bullet and order them now.

I'll probably order the sensors now, too; worst case, I sit on those as spares.

MM3/DRD is still the recommended tuner/tuner correct?

See the link below.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...l-Parts-Tuning

 0 Comment(s)

[ddsneversummer]

See the link below.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...l-Parts-Tuning

Huh, is there another recommended tuner?

I'll order tomorrow.

The last 3 years have suuuuucked.

 0 Comment(s)