Head Stud Choices?

[J695]

Good day, everyone.

I am returning to a topic that's been talked about repeatedly, but I am looking for some fresh information.

I am looking into getting some head studs.

I'm looking at some ARP 625s, but then also the 425.

Then there is the Gator brand, which I don't know much about but hear the name come up often.

6.7L with 79k. I don't run it hard and don't drive my truck often, but it's going through some deep maintenance here in the coming weeks, finally. I have

(This is a daily driver that will be towing, and shortly, the point of all my upgrades is reliability.

The arm turbo is gone, power will be set to a tow level and stay there, and transmission will be done next summer; BBI injectors are also going in with the studs.

I'm undecided on which studs to get; with my setup, it can easily be in the 650-700hp range, but like I said, this is a reliable setup. If I need the power, it will be there, but there is no need for hot rodding from me.

I feel the 425s will be sufficient, but I'm a one-and-done type of guy, which has me thinking about the 625. MlnThen there is Gator, which I don't know much about.

Everyone's information and opinions are greatly appreciated.

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[IndyRamMega]

I'm an overbuilt kind of guy.

I tow with mine and dont take it off the 30 tow tune as far as studs are concerned; ARP is the only choice

i went with 625's in case I ever wanted to remove the head again, as they dont stretch, so they can be reused.

The 425s technically are a one-and-done unit.

YMMV.

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[kevin.klassen]

I would say with a 700hp engine, this isn't the area to try to save $$, get the 625s, and be done with it.

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[Corkey]

I have the 425s but a 64 instead of the 67-turbo setup with 60hp injectors.

I would love to dyno her to see exact hp & torque values.

If you're seeking +700hp, I wouldn't make it a towing rig, especially if you go with the non-VGT " 2g setup."

The VGT gives you the best of both worlds regarding an overall purpose turbo, great low-end spooling, and a moderate top-end.

2G's, you need bigger injectors to spool the S400 series turbos properly.

This calls for a decent amount of fuel " before boost occurs, " which is most often referred to as low boost fueling.

Once the turbo lights, you scale back the fuel trim to allow the turbo to do most of the work instead of the motor.

This is also why any boost leak can and will hinder performance.

The S400s will smoke a lot at your HP goals, and try to mix a primary towing rig into the goals.

You might consider sticking with the VGT setup and running a good turbo like a fleece cheetah.

It was probably the best customer service I've encountered with a warranty when I had my VGT setup.

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[badbajawa]

I have never seen anyone complain about 625s.

Yes, they are more expensive, but not having to get back in there is worth it, IMO.

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[Corkey]

Agreed, they have a stronger tensile strength than the 425's, adding comfort to his idea regarding the 425's.

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[J695]

The VGT has been replaced with a fixed turbo.

I travel great distances to have a mechanical issue with a VGT.

Just not worth the risk.

I would have loved to have kept the VGT, but it is no longer an option.

625s will likely be the way I go.

As many have said, it's a no-brainer just seeing if there were some concrete reasons not to.

It would be nice to save a few dollars, but once I open up everything, injectors, etc., it's getting done right.

I'm not one to skip corners.

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[BuckMeister]

For what its worth I'm running ARP 2000 headstuds, I haven't dyno'd my truck but it should be north of 700WHP.

I also ran a "200 HP" tune with stock head bolts for a long time before all the hard part upgrades you see below so maybe I'm not the most risk averse person.

That being said 625s are obviously the safer choice.

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