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Thread: Upgrading The Alternator?

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    CumminsNoob20's Avatar

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    Upgrading The Alternator?

    I saw another post regarding going from stock 136 to 180 amp, and the wiring is barely good enough for that.

    I want to move into a 240 or 320-amp alternator.

    My question is, do I need to upgrade the wiring beforehand?

    Nothing is drawing more power than usual, but my current stock alternator is dying, and I want to future-proof it in case I get a sound system.

    If I don't, I will replace it if I need wiring.

    Yeah, I'm taking it to a shop.

    Thanks

    2018 RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins - G56
    - ARP Headstuds
    - Full Delete w/ Jamo straight pipe.
    - Sinister Diesel CAI
    - Pedal Commander
    - 5" Rough Country lift
    - 37" Falken A/T on Black Rhino 18"

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    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Upgrading The Alternator?

    Quote Originally Posted by CumminsNoob20 View Post
    I saw another post regarding going from stock 136 to 180 amp, and the wiring is barely good enough for that.

    I want to move into a 240 or 320-amp alternator.

    My question is, do I need to upgrade the wiring beforehand?

    Nothing is drawing more power than usual, but my current stock alternator is dying, and I want to future-proof it in case I get a sound system.

    If I don't, I will replace it if I need wiring.

    Yeah, I'm taking it to a shop.

    Thanks
    It depends on what your maximum amperage draw will be.

    If you add enough load to draw over 240 amps, I recommend replacing the ground straps and the power cable that runs from the alternator to the battery with heavier gauge cables.

    If you haven't added any additional load to the system, the higher amperage alternator won't cause any harm.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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    CumminsNoob20's Avatar

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    Re: Upgrading The Alternator?

    Quote Originally Posted by AK Bob View Post
    It depends on what your maximum amperage draw will be.

    If you add enough load to draw over 240 amps, I recommend replacing the ground straps and the power cable that runs from the alternator to the battery with heavier gauge cables.

    If you haven't added any additional load to the system, the higher amperage alternator won't cause any harm.
    That is exactly the answer I was looking for.

    I think I will go ahead and consult my shop about upgrading cables, too.

    Thanks!

    2018 RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins - G56
    - ARP Headstuds
    - Full Delete w/ Jamo straight pipe.
    - Sinister Diesel CAI
    - Pedal Commander
    - 5" Rough Country lift
    - 37" Falken A/T on Black Rhino 18"

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    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Upgrading The Alternator?

    Quote Originally Posted by CumminsNoob20 View Post
    That is exactly the answer I was looking for.

    I think I will go ahead and consult my shop about upgrading cables, too.

    Thanks!
    Sounds good; please keep us posted on the total load and wire size recommended by your shop.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: Upgrading The Alternator?

    Quote Originally Posted by AK Bob View Post
    It depends on what your maximum amperage draw will be.

    If you add enough load to draw over 240 amps, I recommend replacing the ground straps and the power cable that runs from the alternator to the battery with heavier gauge cables.

    If you haven't added any additional load to the system, the higher amperage alternator won't cause any harm.
    He could also keep his original stuff in place and add another wire from the alt to the battery, which applies to the ground.

    I suspect HSI charge wire may be incorporated into a harness assy.

    Also, buying bulk cable and making all your own is a great option.

    I have a hammer type cable staker and a hydraulic type staker, they will do everything from 8AWG to 4/0 cable.

    The ends I use are the ones with the blind hole so no corrosion can get into the cut end of the wire.

    I also use marine-grade heat shrink to seal the cable.

    You can buy bulk cable in red or black.

    I'd use all black unless it's an actual + batt cable, then I'd use red.

    Be sure to use 100% copper-stranded cable, which is copper-plated aluminum.

    Not good.

    Cable ends I use (I have a huge compartment box for all these sizes and fit 5/16 or 3/8 studs)



    Hammer-type stalker.

    Dont stake it like the photo; stake it on the underside of the cable lug. Doing it the way he is makes for an ugly cable end.



    And if you can't get a hammer, I use my hydraulic crimper.



    I also have one that works like bolt cutters and crimps with a hex shape like the hydraulic unit, and it is also nice in tight areas.

    When you can make your cables, it makes everything look so nice.

    Home Depot sells the best shrink tube.

    It's in the electrician connector and tie wrap section.



    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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