Door Lock / Remote Issues?

[RamzServ8486]

2013 RAM 3500 C&C.

When I bought the truck a few years back, the door locks were already messed up.

I could lock the doors from the driver-side door panel switches, and I could lock them with the remote.

However, the unlock buttons on the driver door panel switches nor the remote would unlock the doors.

When utilizing the remote, you could see the EVIC flash and headlights would come on, but the doors would not unlock.

I can't even lock the doors from the door panel switches, but I still lock from the remote.

It would be nice to have both functions as they should.

Any thoughts? It would be so nice not to have to remove the key from the fob/remote everything I have to get in the truck.

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[watersupply189]

Have you tried replacing the driver's side door lock switches and replacing the battery in the fob?

I had an issue with not the locks but the widow's switch.

I couldn’t roll down the passenger window from the driver's side.

I replaced the driver-side door switches, and that solved my issue.

I'm not saying your door lock switch is the issue, but it wouldn’t hurt to try that.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[RamzServ8486]

I have not replaced the switch panel.

It is worth a shot, but I didn't want to throw parts at it.

The window switches and mirror switches function.

Yes, I've changed the batteries in both key fobs multiple times without success.

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[watersupply189]

Unless it’s a module or something like that, the switches would probably be cheaper to see if that’s the fix.

Let us know what you find out.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Badger2078]

Unless it’s a module or something like that, the switches would probably be cheaper to see if that’s the fix.

Let us know what you find out.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

If you have access to a bi-directional diag tool, you should be able to see the switch state on the tool and actuate the motors from the tool, which would help to diag exactly.

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[Badger2078]

If you have access to a bi-directional diag tool, you should be able to see the switch state on the tool and actuate the motors from the tool, which would help to diag exactly.

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Are you from the Spartanburg area?

That's what I do is mobile mechanics and diag.

In the upstate area.

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[RamzServ8486]

Are you from the Spartanburg area?

That's what I do is mobile mechanics and diag.

In the upstate area.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using Tapatalk

I don't have one of those diagnostic tools.

I live in Anderson but I mostly work out of Greenville/Greer/Simpsonville areas.

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[AK Bob]

Are you from the Spartanburg area?

That's what I do is mobile mechanics and diag.

In the upstate area.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using Tapatalk

I don't have one of those diagnostic tools.

I live in Anderson but I mostly work out of Greenville/Greer/Simpsonville areas.

Agree; you will need a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose and troubleshoot the power lock system properly.

Sethe e attached power lock operation information.

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[Badger2078]

I don't have one of those diagnostic tools.

I live in Anderson but I mostly work out of Greenville/Greer/Simpsonville areas.

I can probably help you out.

I'm in Inman boiling springs.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

I have not replaced the switch panel.

It is worth a shot, but I didn't want to throw parts at it.

The window switches and mirror switches function.

Yes, I've changed the batteries in both key fobs multiple times without success.

That switch gets lots of use and also sees lots of water.

When the windows are down, rainwater gets in and creates corrosion.

The door lock actuator reverses polarity, so wiring is most likely OK.

But, it can break at the door jamp from lots of opening and closing.

It would be best to have Alfaobd; you can tell the body ECU to operate these functions (we call them active tests), eliminating lots of guesswork.

You have latch switches or lock detection switches, these are inputs that can limit lock operation too.

I suspect these are probably parts of the door latch.

Each door has its own ECU connected or communicates with the body ECU (fuse block, AKA TIPM) with a CAN network or a twisted pair of wires.

This is all part of the IHS or internal high-speed network system.

Get a good scan tool that can read body codes, this will be more money than typical scan tools that read jsut engine and trans codes.

Stick with Autel, MX808, for example, and get cocky; get the bi-directional like the MS906BT unit.

AlfaOBD you can get for an android phone for $50, make sure you spell it alfa not alpha.

It can read codes, too.

Bi directional scanner can do lots too probably active test also.

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