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Thanks that is precisely what my truck did before dying.Originally Posted by Corkey
Low rpm at idle around 500 and shaky.
When I would start going, it seemed fine.
My wife did run it low on fuel a couple of days before so it might have clogged filters.
They come on Thursday, so we'll see.
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Would I still get good rail pressure with a clogged filter, though?
I did see that the FASS water separator filter, when full of water, will just shut off and not let anything through, rather than letting water through after it is full.
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Good question.
When you say rail pressure, what pressure do you see for actual vs desired?
WOT, you should see 27 to 29k psi.
If your filter is clogged and your CP3 is healthy, you could have enough fuel through the lift pump to make ends meet but hesitate due to the clogged filter, if that makes sense.
I was throwing out possibilities for troubleshooting, as filters are the cheapest part to try out.
The filter could be a plausible cause if the rail pressure has hiccups.
You can disconnect the CP3's single electrical plug, configure the motor's actual and desired PID, and see what the rail pressure reads.
This way, you don't need to take the truck on a drive and make unnecessary pulls on it if you don't have to.
If the rail fluctuates, it doesn't mean you have a bad CP3 or FCA; the restriction might be the filter.
I just got off work.
Hopefully, this makes sense, LOL.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
I got the new fuel filters in, and no change.
I bought a scanner tool, which it returned with these codes.
U010E: Lost communication with reductant control module
P2228: Barometric pressure circuit low
P1193: Inlet air temperature sensor high
U010C: Lost communication with turbocharger control module
P0102: Mass airflow sensor 'A' circuit low
Would any of this cause the engine not to run?
My grid heater is still kicking on, and it's 80 degrees outside.
My turbo actuator went out a while back, and I unplugged it, so that's probably why the turbo code is coming up.
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Here is a link with me turning it over while showing the rail pressure actual (right side middle) and desired ( right side bottom)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_k6...w?usp=drivesdk
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The U010E code is standard for a truck on a diet, and the U010C makes sense with the turbo actuator disconnected.
I have attached the troubleshooting information for the remaining trouble codes below.
They all have the 5V reference voltage in common; I suspect one of the sensors is pulling down the 5V reference to the ground.
The truck will not start without the 5V reference.
I would begin by checking to see if the 5V is present at the inlet air temperature sensor by leaving it connected and back probing.
If no 5V is present, then you will need to unplug the sensor and check again to see if the 5V comes back.
You will need to repeat this procedure with the MAP sensor and possibly on other sensors that use the 5V reference until you find which one is pulling it down.
It will most likely be a bad sensor, but it could also be a grounded 5V wire in the harness, so thoroughly inspect all your wiring, especially where there is heat and vibration, for any signs of damage.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Any progress over the weekend?
Were you able to check the 5V reference?
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
I have not been at work the last few days.
I checked the intake temp sensor, which got 5v plugged and unplugged.
I checked MAF, and it got 5v unplugged but 8v plugged.
That's as far as I had got before I had to leave. I'll be continuing to check rest today.
Thanks for the PDF.
They are super helpful!
The MAF sensor (The first three-wire sensor located on the tube after the air filter) doesn’t have a 5V reference.
The supply voltage should be battery voltage with the key on, disconnected sensor, and measured on the harness side.
IMG_0682.jpg
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Yes the MAF showed 11.38 and my battery is 12.18 with ignition in on position.
Battery is 12.65 with everything off.
When I touched the wire next to the supply wire on the plug, it gave 8V.
I am trying to locate pcm C1 harness right now to continue down the list but I am not finding anything on internet yet.
I saw 1 place said it's blue plug and c2 is green plug.
I see a blue and green plug on what I thought was ecm by crankshaft and camshaft sensors.
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