U1412: Implausible Vehicle Speed Signal Received

[Ron]

Hey everyone.

So, I decided to go to Brake Check yesterday for a brake inspection and was optimistic about getting a decent quote for brake services.

After getting quoted over $600, I decided to do it myself.

They reinstalled my stuff, did a flush, and I departed.

Well, today, I was driving to the gym when my ABS, Trailer Brake, Traction Control, and Parking Sensor system tripped.

I assumed they did something crazy, like leave my calipers hanging on the wires during the check.

I called to get some insight on what they did. They denied anything and mentioned that I had some play in my suitable front wheel bearing, which I mentioned during my visit.

I checked the wiring and fuses when I got my truck home; I did not see any abnormalities.

I also checked to see if my brake fluid was low, which it was not.

I am looking for mentorship so I can troubleshoot this and get it fixed.

I need to change my brake pads, but I do not think they would trigger the DTC.

I do all the work on my truck to avoid the usual BS I have to deal with after letting people work on it.

I found some pin boots on the calipers smashed, and the bleeder caps were missing.

This wouldn't cause my issue, but it's still frustrating.

I always forget how annoying it is to seek convenience, and I always end up regretting it.

On a side note, if anyone knows a good mechanic, preferably a small business, in the San Antonio, Texas, area, please don't hesitate to share.

I could use a good support system to quit bugging you guys with my problems.

I appreciate any help you can provide.
Ron

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[AK Bob]

You will need to perform a full system scan for trouble codes.

In particular, the ABS module and body control module.

See the attached troubleshooting information for your code.

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[Ron]

UPDATE - Cleared the U1412 code, drove it to pick up some dinner, and didn't return.

[B]Two dash warnings remain.

1) Service Electronic Braking System
2) Service Antilock Brake System

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[AK Bob]

You can try disconnecting both batteries to see if a system reset will clear the dash messages.

I recommend having a scan tool or AlfaOBD software capable of reading all modules.

This way, you can pull the trouble codes from all modules.

Many trouble codes don’t turn on the CEL.

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[Ron]

You can try disconnecting both batteries to see if a system reset will clear the dash messages.

I recommend having a scan tool or AlfaOBD software capable of reading all modules.

This way, you can pull the trouble codes from all modules.

Many trouble codes don’t turn on the CEL.

I took your advice and went to get the truck scanned this morning.

After wasting time at O’Reilly and Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts had the ABS scan capability I sought.

It pulled two codes today, 1 for the ABS and 1 for the engine.

C00341D - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
P0472 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor “A” Circuit Low

I ordered a new front right-wheel speed sensor.

I figured I’d start with the cheaper solution.

I think my wheel hub may be worse than I thought.

The play in the hub is minimal.

As far as the exhaust pressure sensor.

My truck lost weight in 2019, so it’s interesting to learn that this sensor isn’t “dead.”

I should have asked if this code was in the history or active.

Before my second-generation swap, my old VGT turbo got clogged up, and I just decided to go in a different direction.

Could it have been a code related to the old turbo issue?

Sound like a reasonable approach?

Any advice?

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[Corkey]

I cleaned that tube you're talking about once.

I ran a real small-bore snake through it, saturated with brake cleaner.

I don't remember why I decided to clean it out; I also had that code pop up.

I ordered the new sensor as well to try to eliminate that code.

There was a tremendous amount of carbon that was caked inside.

It won't hurt to clean it out, just run a lot of shop air through the tube afterwards.

I was afraid the cleaner would hit the sensor and fry it.

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[AK Bob]

I agree the new wheel speed sensor is the best place to start.

With your weight loss, I wouldn’t worry too much about the P0472 code.

On the 13-18 models, the exhaust back pressure sensor can be unplugged and removed.

 0 Comment(s)

[Ron]

I agree the new wheel speed sensor is the best place to start.

With your weight loss, I wouldn't worry too much about the P0472 code.

On the 13-18 models, the exhaust back pressure sensor can be unplugged and removed.

Before the story gets too long, I am stopping by for a quick update.

I decided to do brake pads and rotors while getting the speed sensor changed.

I went with the Carquest Frontline rotors and pads.

It's probably overkill, but I usually go big when I'm there.

It took me all day yesterday, but it was because I was dealing with little issues here and there.

I found all the crap that they did when reassembling my old brakes.

Ordered new bleeder screw caps, and dealt with a caliber that was smashed in which scrapped the pistons pretty bad on the backside screws of the brake pad.

The most significant and time-consuming part was that the caliber guide pins were seized, moisture got in them at some point, and some surface rust was created, bonding them in the holes.

I broke them loose and wondered how these weren't addressed when they did the brake component inspection.

Anyway, nothing a rubber mallet and patience couldn't handle, I used some sand paper, brake cleaner, and wire brushes to get them polished up for the brake grease.

I completed the speed sensor replacement and checked to see if the ABS light indicator turned off on the dash, which it did.

Problem solved, or so I thought.

Today, I went out to break in and set the brakes; as I turned right, I heard scrapping on the right front rotor.

I assumed the ABS was kicking in since I wasn't on the brakes.

I checked my tune and reentered the correct while size.

I went out again and heard the noise once again.

I got home, jacked up the front end, and spun the wheels to ensure it was the front passenger wheel.

It made the noise again, but it was grinding, not scrapping this time.

The wheel has more play now than it did previously.

I expected to find a bent backing plate to be scrapping the rotor, but now I'm pretty sure it is a wheel hub issue.

I don't have the puller to get the old hub off, so I'm about to nurse it to a shop to get it done.

I also had surgery, so I'm not supposed to do anything strenuous for a week.

I'll give you guys the closeout report once life is normal again.

At least we haven't thrown unnecessary parts at the truck trying to figure this out.

I appreciate the help keeping the trial and error to a minimum.

Do you have any recommendations on hubs?

 0 Comment(s)

[watersupply189]

Before the story gets too long, I am stopping by for a quick update.

I decided to do brake pads and rotors while getting the speed sensor changed.

I went with the Carquest Frontline rotors and pads.

It's probably overkill, but I usually go big when I'm there.

It took me all day yesterday, but it was because I was dealing with little issues here and there.

I found all the crap that they did when reassembling my old brakes.

Ordered new bleeder screw caps, and dealt with a caliber that was smashed in which scrapped the pistons pretty bad on the backside screws of the brake pad.

The most significant and time-consuming part was that the caliber guide pins were seized, moisture got in them at some point, and some surface rust was created, bonding them in the holes.

I broke them loose and wondered how these weren't addressed when they did the brake component inspection.

Anyway, nothing a rubber mallet and patience couldn't handle, I used some sand paper, brake cleaner, and wire brushes to get them polished up for the brake grease.

I completed the speed sensor replacement and checked to see if the ABS light indicator turned off on the dash, which it did.

Problem solved, or so I thought.

Today, I went out to break in and set the brakes; as I turned right, I heard scrapping on the right front rotor.

I assumed the ABS was kicking in since I wasn't on the brakes.

I checked my tune and reentered the correct while size.

I went out again and heard the noise once again.

I got home, jacked up the front end, and spun the wheels to ensure it was the front passenger wheel.

It made the noise again, but it was grinding, not scrapping this time.

The wheel has more play now than it did previously.

I expected to find a bent backing plate to be scrapping the rotor, but now I'm pretty sure it is a wheel hub issue.

I don't have the puller to get the old hub off, so I'm about to nurse it to a shop to get it done.

I also had surgery, so I'm not supposed to do anything strenuous for a week.

I'll give you guys the closeout report once life is normal again.

At least we haven't thrown unnecessary parts at the truck trying to figure this out.

I appreciate the help keeping the trial and error to a minimum.

Do you have any recommendations on hubs?

When it rains, it pours!
Sorry about all the issues you are having.
I went with O’Rielly’s Precision hubs.
Hope you get to feeling better and thanks for the update.




2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Before the story gets too long, I am stopping by for a quick update.

I decided to do brake pads and rotors while getting the speed sensor changed.

I went with the Carquest Frontline rotors and pads.

It's probably overkill, but I usually go big when I'm there.

It took me all day yesterday, but it was because I was dealing with little issues here and there.

I found all the crap that they did when reassembling my old brakes.

Ordered new bleeder screw caps, and dealt with a caliber that was smashed in which scrapped the pistons pretty bad on the backside screws of the brake pad.

The most significant and time-consuming part was that the caliber guide pins were seized, moisture got in them at some point, and some surface rust was created, bonding them in the holes.

I broke them loose and wondered how these weren't addressed when they did the brake component inspection.

Anyway, nothing a rubber mallet and patience couldn't handle, I used some sand paper, brake cleaner, and wire brushes to get them polished up for the brake grease.

I completed the speed sensor replacement and checked to see if the ABS light indicator turned off on the dash, which it did.

Problem solved, or so I thought.

Today, I went out to break in and set the brakes; as I turned right, I heard scrapping on the right front rotor.

I assumed the ABS was kicking in since I wasn't on the brakes.

I checked my tune and reentered the correct while size.

I went out again and heard the noise once again.

I got home, jacked up the front end, and spun the wheels to ensure it was the front passenger wheel.

It made the noise again, but it was grinding, not scrapping this time.

The wheel has more play now than it did previously.

I expected to find a bent backing plate to be scrapping the rotor, but now I'm pretty sure it is a wheel hub issue.

I don't have the puller to get the old hub off, so I'm about to nurse it to a shop to get it done.

I also had surgery, so I'm not supposed to do anything strenuous for a week.

I'll give you guys the closeout report once life is normal again.

At least we haven't thrown unnecessary parts at the truck trying to figure this out.

I appreciate the help keeping the trial and error to a minimum.

Do you have any recommendations on hubs?

I recommend Timken.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-ha590628

 0 Comment(s)