New Vibration At 1100-1300 RPM?

[bajaben]

Knock on wood; I am curious if the converter is possibly acting up or starting to show signs.

You noticed it after towing the trailer and parked it.

So, I was curious after reading your post, so I checked the fluid level of the transmission.

The dipstick was bone dry!

I added a quart of ATFE+4 and drove a few miles. I let the truck settle, and I checked again—still dry!

I added a 2nd quart and did the same thing.

The shifts were so much smoother.

I checked again this morning, and finally, the field touched the dipstick.

It was still low, so I added another 1/2 quart.

I drove it, let it cool down, and checked again.

2 1/2 quarts low?

No leaks, brand new transmission, shifted fine(apparently not as good as it should), and never overheated.

My suspicion is that when I had the fluid changed after the initial break in, the tech wasn't aware that new transmission pan added an additional 4.5 quarts on top of the recommended amount.

He probably just added the recommended amount and called it good.

Hopefully, this also addresses my vibration, but

I doubt that; I'm hoping there isn't any permanent damage.

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[watersupply189]

A good tech would have ensured everything after refilling was to the full mark before releasing the truck back to you.

I'm glad you discovered it low before it left you stranded.



2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Corkey]

110% agree with you @watersupply189

Hopefully, it will fix the issue.

You probably nailed it on the head with the deeper pan scenario.

Anyone with a touch of common sense and labeled tech should check fluid levels after a fluid change.

Please keep us posted on the progress of how it's driving.

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[bajaben]

So, update.

The transmission is running super smooth now.

It's crazy that it didn't completely blow with the fluid being that low. Kudos to BD Diesel for building a super stout transmission.

2nd update: I may have found the culprit of the vibration.

I started grabbing everything under the truck and giving it all a "wiggle test," and I found that my radiator fan was wobbly.

There is more front-to-back play than I would like, about 1/8th inch.

It's hard to tell if the fan is wobbling back and forth while running, but I am going to replace the fan clutch anyway.

I am praying that this is the source of the vibration.

Fingers crossed.

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[AK Bob]

So, update.

The transmission is running super smooth now.

It's crazy that it didn't completely blow with the fluid being that low. Kudos to BD Diesel for building a super stout transmission.

2nd update: I may have found the culprit of the vibration.

I started grabbing everything under the truck and giving it all a "wiggle test," and I found that my radiator fan was wobbly.

There is more front-to-back play than I would like, about 1/8th inch.

It's hard to tell if the fan is wobbling back and forth while running, but I am going to replace the fan clutch anyway.

I am praying that this is the source of the vibration.

Fingers crossed.

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You can force the fan to run if you want to check it for vibration.

See the attached instructions, step #7.

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[sootmaster]

Hello, since @Park can verify when stopped, the easiest path for me would be to remove the drive belt.

This way, all external accessories are taken out of the loop, leaving just the base engine drive components.

Including Viscus fan clutch.

Is a cracked plastic fiber blade an issue?

Missing Blade.

Mine blew a blade off one time.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Will it vibrate setting still and running engine RPMs up?

Or just driving down the road.

If its just driving down the road, look at ujoints, dont expect to always feel loose, they usually go tight before they go loose.

Remove shaft, work each joint on its axis, both directions should be butter smooth, no lumps.

Also, dont overlook slip yoke binding too.

As you accel, pinion wants to climb the ring gear pointing nose of diff up, if slip yoke doesnt slide under load, this create a pull or push on the driveshaft.

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[bajaben]

So, here is an update.

I was finally able to figure out what was causing my vibration.

It turns out it is my exhaust riding on the transmission cross brace.

So what happened was the flex joint in my downpipe expanded, and the wire "basket" that holds the flex joint nice and tight busted open, allowing the flex joint to drop and grow.

This, in turn, caused my exhaust to drop.
So I ordered a new exhaust from the Tuner Depot to correct the problem.

However, the website is misleading/vague in the kit description.

They stated that the 4-inch exhaust is from the "downpipe back," so I thought it included the downpipe it does not! In my opinion, it should state that you retain and reuse the stock downpipe.

That said, I will try to cut out the flex joint section on the downpipe and weld it in a solid 4-inch pipe.

Does anyone see any issue with this? I figured it would be ok since the 5-inch system replaces the downpipe with solid pieces (no flex joint).

I would buy a downpipe, but I can not for the life of me find anyone that sells or even stocks them.

The 5-inch system is a no-go because of my BD exhaust break (4-inch).

As always, thank you for the insight and help.

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[sootmaster]

Hello, since have basic pattern, any metal fab shop or Muffler pipe with 4" dies can make you a patch and install.

I ran into this doing exhaust on HP cars with none factory engine and super-trapp mufflers.

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[bajaben]

Well, I got the bad section cut out and a solid piece welded in there.

My welds look like crap, but they hold pressure; I tested everything with my exhaust break, and I don't have any soot escaping.

The vibration is gone!

Overall, it's a big win.

I will be installing the remaining exhaust system once I get the last part from BD Diesel.



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