68RFE Replacement / Gears?

[Cummins_Legend]

Good day, RAM addicts.

So, in my previous thread, I stated I was replacing a valve body from the Next Gen Drivetrain.

It was installed and ran great.

Well, two weeks after the replacement, my transmission went kaput.

The 5th and 6th gears are not running, shifting hard from 3rd to 4th.

So now I am purchasing a stage 2 tranny from Next Gen Drivetrain, and I want to do the gears as well.

I was told that when a truck gets a lift and tires, it puts more strain on the tranny than what it is mathematically built for.

So if you didn't know this, now you know.

As far as that goes, what brand is good gears for a 2020 RAM 2500?

I am going with 4.88, but I would like your thoughts.

I am looking at Nitro Gear & Axle AAM 9.25-inch Front Axle/11.80-inch Rear Axle Ring and Pinion Gear Kit; 4.88 Gear Ratio.

This is all I could find on my year truck.

Thanks for any help and feedback.

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[17_cummins]

Good day, RAM addicts.

So, in my previous thread, I stated I was replacing a valve body from the Next Gen Drivetrain.

It was installed and ran great.

Well, two weeks after the replacement, my transmission went kaput.

The 5th and 6th gears are not running, shifting hard from 3rd to 4th.

So now I am purchasing a stage 2 tranny from Next Gen Drivetrain, and I want to do the gears as well.

I was told that when a truck gets a lift and tires, it puts more strain on the tranny than what it is mathematically built for.

So if you didn't know this, now you know.

As far as that goes, what brand is good gears for a 2020 RAM 2500?

I am going with 4.88, but I would like your thoughts.

I am looking at Nitro Gear & Axle AAM 9.25-inch Front Axle/11.80-inch Rear Axle Ring and Pinion Gear Kit; 4.88 Gear Ratio.

This is all I could find on my year truck.

Thanks for any help and feedback.

That sucks to hear about your transmission.

I just did a gear swap on my 2017 RAM 3500 4x4 from 3.42 to 4.10, but I'm on stock tires.

The reason I did it is cause I tow a 16.5k 5th-wheel camper.

I went with all Yukon gear and I'm happy with the setup.

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[Cummins_Legend]

I couldn't find any by Yukon for my year truck.

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[IndyRamMega]

I'd use AAM gears.

Yukon isn't what it once was.

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[Corkey]

In another week, I'm having 4.56 put in.

I got a lifetime warranty with the gears, so if anything goes wrong, they'll ship all new parts free of charge.

The warranty was an additional $100 bucks.

4.88s are getting up there, in my opinion; if you constantly tow heavy, they suggested them to me as well.

I was going for the Nitro 4.30 gears, but it has an extreme back order for them.

They specifically said to install a hurry to order Yukon's.

They are the exact same things, but you'll be paying for a Nike price."

It's, in a sense, like picking a favorite football team with brands of gears to go for.

Some have good days and bad days.

I would stick with a reputable company with good customer service and, most importantly, the warranty.

As long as the truck is registered in my name and you register your product within 30 days of purchase, you're set for a lifetime on the parts you get from Yukon.

Say you forget to fill a differential up with fluid and hot rod.

It burns the gears up, and they'll send new ones to you.

Just my opinion.

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[BrentM]

I have a set of Yukon 4.56 gears sitting in my garage, with master rebuild kits I picked up from DDP.

Here are the part numbers.

I am not sure, but I think the axles would be the same from 2017 to 2020.

PXL_20240518_165358072.jpg

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[Corkey]

I have a set of Yukon 4.56 gears sitting in my garage, with master rebuild kits I picked up from DDP.

Here are the part numbers.

I am not sure, but I think the axles would be the same from 2017 to 2020.

PXL_20240518_165358072.jpg

Did you opt in for the full synthetic redline shock proof by chance?

I was told it's the cat's meow for fluid.

However, the guy installing them had mentioned that with a full synthetic, you won't have gear marks patterns for the meshing.

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[BrentM]

Did you opt in for the full synthetic redline shock proof by chance?

I was told it's the cat's meow for fluid.

However, the guy installing them had mentioned that with a full synthetic, you won't have gear marks patterns for the meshing.

I haven't bought fluid yet, but that is a good suggestion that I will definitely look into.

Wouldn't the mesh pattern be checked before the fluid goes in?

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[Corkey]

Most people will want to check on the mesh pattern for checking how deep or shallow the gears are connecting between the teeth.

This is where that paint\grease comes into play that was supplied with the overhaul kit we both purchased.

This is what my gear guy had said.

Edit: Perhaps with nonsynthetic fluids, it retains the mesh markings while still submerged in fluid, where the full synthetic fluid might eat away those paint\grease markings between the teeth.

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[AK Bob]

I haven't bought fluid yet, but that is a good suggestion that I will definitely look into.

Wouldn't the mesh pattern be checked before the fluid goes in?

Yes, the gear clearances will be set up and checked during installation. I believe the reason for avoiding synthetic oil initially is to allow for proper break-in and visible wear patterns.


https://www.yukongear.com/help/faq/d...w-set-of-gears

Many after-market axle and gear manufacturers recommend conventional gear oil because they know it will be changed in short order, and they want specific heat cycles to occur and synthetic oil controls the heat better than conventional which may change the number of heat cycles needed, so that may play a part in the recommendation.

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