Mass Air Flow Issue?

[Badger2078]

Ok, so I pulled the intake off the turbo today and tried to remove the mass air flow sensor from the intake tube to inspect for another issue, but it was seized to the aluminum.

During this, I broke the sensor.

I didn't have any codes beforehand, bought a sensor at O'Reilly for $130, and then I had a P262D code.

I verified 12 volts on red and black and 4.8V on black/orange.

I cleared the code again, and it returned every time I started the truck after 75 seconds with the key off.

Again, I didn't have any codes from the MFA sensor for this, and it was not plugged in when I broke it.

So, I replaced the sensor again.

Different brands have the same issue.

The sensor is reporting 1.7 grams per second with the key on the engine off.

The sensor output reference is at 1.998 volts with the key on the engine off.

Does both of these not mean I've managed to get yet another faulty sensor?

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[Badger2078]

Also, the sensor does respond to moving air

Also, unplugging the mass air flow sensor does not result in an error code, and the truck runs as normal with the MAF unplugged.

DRD tuning and WC Fab 2nd Gen swap.

Indeed, the MFA sensor isn't tuned out tight.





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[AK Bob]

Ok, so I pulled the intake off the turbo today and tried to remove the mass air flow sensor from the intake tube to inspect for another issue, but it was seized to the aluminum.

During this, I broke the sensor.

I didn't have any codes beforehand, bought a sensor at O'Reilly for 130$, and then I had a P242D code.

I verified 12 volts on red and black and 4.8V on black/orange.

I cleared the code again, and it returned every time I started the truck after 75 seconds with the key off.

Again, I didn't have any codes from the MFA sensor for this, and it was not plugged in when I broke it.

So, I replaced the sensor again.

Different brands have the same issue.

The sensor is reporting 1.7 grams per second with the key on the engine off.

The sensor output reference is at 1.998 volts with the key on the engine off.

Does both of these not mean I've managed to get yet another faulty sensor?

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Not sure what you have going on.

According to my information, the P242D trouble code is for the exhaust temperature sensor #3 (see attached).

The mass airflow with a key on the engine off should read 0 kg/min. MAF Signal 2.66 VDC, MAF Supply 10.7 VDC, and MAF Return 0.003 VDC.

I would recommend purchasing a new OEM MAF sensor.

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[Badger2078]

Not sure what you have going on.

According to my information, the P242D trouble code is for the exhaust temperature sensor #3 (see attached).

The mass airflow with a key on the engine off should read 0 kg/min. MAF Signal 2.66 VDC, MAF Supply 10.7 VDC, and MAF Return 0.003 VDC.

I would recommend purchasing a new OEM MAF sensor.

So sorry @AK Bob was supposed to be P262D.

I'll change the first post.

Any change in the verdict?

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[AK Bob]

Not sure what you have going on.

According to my information, the P242D trouble code is for the exhaust temperature sensor #3 (see attached).

The mass airflow with a key on the engine off should read 0 kg/min. MAF Signal 2.66 VDC, MAF Supply 10.7 VDC, and MAF Return 0.003 VDC.

I would recommend purchasing a new OEM MAF sensor.

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Yes, that makes more sense.

See the attached troubleshooting information and schematic.

According to the troubleshooting information, this code's possible causes are a shorted MAF sensor or 5V supply voltage to the ground or PCM.

I am a little miffed by the 5V supply since I am seeing 10.7 V on the pink supply wire.

You have different-colored wires on your MAF Sensor than me and the schematic.

If your black/orange wire is perhaps the correct supply at 4.8 V, then what is your red/black wire at 12 V?

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[AK Bob]

Did a little more research and found conflicting information, on ALLDATA they state the following:

NOTE: The MAF Sensor, EGR Cooler Bypass Valve and Turbocharger Actuator get a 12V power supply from the PCM.

So perhaps your red/black is the correct 12V supply and the black/orange 4.8V is the incorrect sensor signal from the MAF sensor.

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[Badger2078]

Did a little more research and found conflicting information, on ALLDATA they state the following:

NOTE: The MAF Sensor, EGR Cooler Bypass Valve and Turbocharger Actuator get a 12V power supply from the PCM.

So perhaps your red/black is the correct 12V supply and the black/orange 4.8V is the incorrect sensor signal from the MAF sensor.

I'll have to check again to be certain of the voltage.

If memory is accurate, the red or pink was 10.8v to gnd, the black was 0v or and, and the black and red was certainly 4.8 volts.

This one has me stumped.

The unplugged sensor runs almost exactly as before with no codes, but notably, the EGT issues are no longer present.

EGTs are now fully under control.

The truck is happy to do the same work with half of the effort.

According to the monitor, the timing is running slightly higher.

It's closer to what I'd expect when the main injection timing rarely climbed above 4*.

With a decent pull, the EGTs are easily kept below 1250 at 15-20 psi, and the truck pulls much harder.

I thing there was a previous issue I've uncovered accidentally.

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[Badger2078]

I'll have to check again to be certain of the voltage.

If memory is accurate, the red or pink was 10.8v to gnd, the black was 0v or and, and the black and red was certainly 4.8 volts.

This one has me stumped.

The unplugged sensor runs almost exactly as before with no codes, but notably, the EGT issues are no longer present.

EGTs are now fully under control.

The truck is happy to do the same work with half of the effort.

According to the monitor, the timing is running slightly higher.

It's closer to what I'd expect when the main injection timing rarely climbed above 4*.

With a decent pull, the EGTs are easily kept below 1250 at 15-20 psi, and the truck pulls much harder.

I think there was a previous issue I accidentally uncovered.

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It pulls like a train again, as it hasn't in a long while, all while cooler.

I'm going to start monitoring fuel consumption.

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[AK Bob]

I'll have to check again to be certain of the voltage.

If memory is accurate, the red or pink was 10.8v to gnd, the black was 0v or and, and the black and red was certainly 4.8 volts.

This one has me stumped.

The unplugged sensor runs almost exactly as before with no codes, but notably, the EGT issues are no longer present.

EGTs are now fully under control.

The truck is happy to do the same work with half of the effort.

According to the monitor, the timing is running slightly higher.

It's closer to what I'd expect when the main injection timing rarely climbed above 4*.

With a decent pull, the EGTs are easily kept below 1250 at 15-20 psi, and the truck pulls much harder.

I think there was a previous issue I accidentally uncovered.

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Makes sense, with the MAF sensor unplugged the PCM likely has a default strategy.

I would still recommend installing a genuine OEM sensor.

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[Badger2078]

Makes sense, with the MAF sensor unplugged the PCM likely has a default strategy.

I would still recommend installing a genuine OEM sensor.

Yes, thanks @AK Bob I'll borrow one from the stocker first just to make sure.

They are surely proud of that sensor.

The only thing that doesn't make sense is the absence of codes.

This tool shows pending, stored, and permanent codes; there are not even distantly related codes for unplugged mass air.

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