Camber - 2020 RAM 2500?

[wstevensoniv]

Thuren sway and track bar and Carli level kit.

I can't find a good alignment shop.

The first cross castered on this solid axel.

The second got pretty close, but my camber is positive in both front tires.

Before putting on new tires, I wore the old ones down without rotating.

It confirmed my suspicions and the driver's side had severe wear on the outer and the passenger moderate—both the front and the backs wore fine.

Again, Greater on the driver's side vs. the passenger's.

What can I adjust to ease the camber a bit?

This forum would suggest it cannot be adjusted: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/positive-camber.166767/

I can't determine why the passenger would have less than the driver's side.

My caster cams are even.

Would track bar adjustment make any difference?

Could this be a symptom of bad:m Shock, Ball joint, or Wheel bearing?

I will be rotating these every 5k, but it also bugs me.

That link suggested it was normal, which also bugs me, LOL.

Thanks for any help.

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[Chrisn162001]

Cambers are not adjustable from the factory.

Not sure if they make adjustable ball joints yet for the 2019 and up trucks.

How bad is the camber reading?


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[wstevensoniv]

We’ll eye balling and observing tread wear.

I wonder, though, if too much toe-in on the driver's side exaggerates this effect.

I don't know, as it drives well.

Just rotate more frequently until I find a place to align with Thuren's spec.


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[Chrisn162001]

We’ll eye balling and observing tread wear.

I wonder, though, if too much toe-in on the driver's side exaggerates this effect.

I don't know, as it drives well.

Just rotate more frequently until I find a place to align with Thuren's spec.


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Hmm yeah find an alignment shop and get a print out.

If the tires aren’t perfectly straight it can give the illusion of camber being off.

Have them set the castor to the center hash marks.

You have half a degree of built-in caster it will never be perfectly even on both sides.


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[Chrisn162001]

I will say I’ve never seen positive camber meaning tires further out on top only negative camber on these trucks.


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[Opie011]

I am going to piggyback here.

I just had an alignment done today, and I gave them the Thuren spec sheet and, unfortunately, picked my truck up after they closed.

Everything looks good except the toe is at .08, and the total toe is .16.

Thuren spec is -.05 to .05 for toe and total toe .00 to .05.

I'm on the high end of the caster with 3.8 drivers and 4.9 passengers.

Thuren spec is 2.4 to 3.8 driver and 3.4 to 4.8 passenger.

Both cams are pointed rearward and one-off from each other passenger cam all the way to the rear and the driver one from the rear.

Would you keep these or have them redo them?

It drives straight and feels good!

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[Chrisn162001]

I am going to piggyback here.

I just had an alignment done today, and I gave them the Thuren spec sheet and, unfortunately, picked my truck up after they closed.

Everything looks good except the toe is at .08, and the total toe is .16.

Thuren spec is -.05 to .05 for toe and total toe .00 to .05.

I'm on the high end of the caster with 3.8 drivers and 4.9 passengers.

Thuren spec is 2.4 to 3.8 driver and 3.4 to 4.8 passenger.

Both cams are pointed rearward and one-off from each other passenger cam all the way to the rear and the driver one from the rear.

Would you keep these or have them redo them?

It drives straight and feels good!

When they say it shows 3.8 on the screen, but the printout reads differently, it's because they didn't run the caster verification check.

Caster is not a live reading; adjusting it is a predictive reading.

It's likely utterly different from what's on the printout.

It will be perfectly fine if it drives straight and doesn't pull.

*Edit Re-read your post: If they aren't competent enough to do it right, I would have them redo the caster or take it elsewhere.

Caster cams need to be on the same marks.

I guarantee the printout is wrong on the caster.


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[Opie011]

When they say it shows 3.8 on the screen, but the printout reads differently, it's because they didn't run the caster verification check.

Caster is not a live reading; adjusting it is a predictive reading.

It's likely utterly different from what's on the printout.

It will be perfectly fine if it drives straight and doesn't pull.

*Edit Re-read your post: If they aren't competent enough to do it right, I would have them redo the caster or take it elsewhere.

Caster cams need to be on the same marks.

I guarantee the printout is wrong on the caster.

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Not sure I'm following you here.

Would you say the 3.8 is accurate or off?

How about my TOE reading?

Would you have concerns about tire wear?

I've done the driveway method for setting TOE, but I no longer have the time.

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[Chrisn162001]

Not sure I'm following you here.

Would you say the 3.8 is accurate or off?

How about my TOE reading?

Would you have concerns about tire wear?

I've done the driveway method for setting TOE, but I no longer have the time.

Caster is not a live measurement; you must perform a “caster sweep” to get an accurate reading.

When you adjust the caster, the reading is basically an estimate from the machine; it may or may not be accurate.

So you have to perform the caster verification function and resweep the caster after adjusting the caster to get an accurate measurement.

I know they didn’t do this because the printout doesn’t update the caster automatically to what they adjusted it to.

That’s why they said, “screen read this number,” but the printout reads differently.

Basically, the caster adjustment is a guess until you run the caster verification procedure and see the real number.

The cams should be even from side to side, and most lifts/level kits end up in the center or one notch back on the adjustment range.

Your toe is perfectly fine, it’s not Thuren spec, but it’s in factory spec and will drive fine and allow even wear.


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[Opie011]

Caster is not a live measurement; you must perform a “caster sweep” to get an accurate reading.

When you adjust the caster, the reading is basically an estimate from the machine; it may or may not be accurate.

So you have to perform the caster verification function and resweep the caster after adjusting the caster to get an accurate measurement.

I know they didn’t do this because the printout doesn’t update the caster automatically to what they adjusted it to.

That’s why they said, “screen read this number,” but the printout reads differently.

Basically, the caster adjustment is a guess until you run the caster verification procedure and see the real number.

The cams should be even from side to side, and most lifts/level kits end up in the center or one notch back on the adjustment range.

Your toe is perfectly fine, it’s not Thuren spec, but it’s in factory spec and will drive fine and allow even wear.

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Ok, gotcha.

Unfortunately, it's been a long while since my last alignment, and I think the cams were both centered, but I can't remember.

Now the passenger side is the last rear mark, and the driver side is 2nd from the last rear mark; I'm probably overthinking this, but my time is limited to get it back to the shop if need be.

Edit- I just saw your edit above.

According to Thuren, the cam bolts can be 1 mark or less mirrored/equal.

Passenger:


Driver:

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