Head Studs?

[Hdawg]

Is the one-at-a-time method still a common thing?

I got 100k miles on my truck, and I always planned to check/adjust valve lash around 100k and do studs, but it seems like a lot of the YouTubers I’ve watched over the years have gone from doing it one-by to recommend only if you have low miles.

What’s your all’s experience?

I daily drive, stock turbo, and plan to go third-gen swap when the actuator goes next, but nothing big on power.

I tow a 15k camper, but that’s about it.

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[Smoked]

I was getting ready to do the same thing (80k) miles and had the same question.

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[Hdawg]

Nice!

Yeah, some of me think to stick with the stock bolts cause I don’t drive it hard.

I do it daily on tune five, and I’ll open it up sometimes if I need to, but it’s not often.

It’s mostly driven pretty easy.

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[z28-50]

Subscribed.

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[IndyRamMega]

While removing the head to have hardened valve seats pressed in, I'd do one out of 1 in if I weren't doing that.

My bud is a bit of a Cummins guru and a local sled-pulling champ.

He says that method is fine for mild to medium builds.

Which studs are you going to use? 2000's or 625s?

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[Hdawg]

While removing the head to have hardened valve seats pressed in, I'd do one out of 1 in if I weren't doing that.

My bud is a bit of a Cummins guru and a local sled-pulling champ.

He says that method is fine for mild to medium builds.

Which studs are you going to use? 2000's or 625s?

I was considering something like Xonic or ARP 2000 since I'm more going for securing the head down better since the biggest I'll go is an S364 or s366.

I am not shooting for big power.

I don't want to do another VGT.

I've already replaced the actuator once.

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[IndyRamMega]

I was considering something like Xonic or ARP 2000 since I'm more going for securing the head down better since the biggest I'll go is an S364 or s366.

I am not shooting for big power.

I don't want to do another VGT.

I've already replaced the actuator once.

It'd be hard to sway from the industry gold standard in studs and fasteners.

I am keeping the VGT since I tow alot with mine.

I found a set of 625s for a good deal, so I snagged them.

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[rsl0311usmc]

Is the one-at-a-time method still a common thing?

I got 100k miles on my truck, and I always planned to check/adjust valve lash around 100k and do studs, but it seems like a lot of the YouTubers I’ve watched over the years have gone from doing it one-by to recommend only if you have low miles.

What’s your all’s experience?

I daily drive, stock turbo, and plan to go third-gen swap when the actuator goes next, but nothing big on power.

I tow a 15k camper, but that’s about it.

I did mine one at a time with just over 100k on my truck, and it's been perfect.

I used ARP 625s and did a 2nd gen swap with the truck over 100k miles.

Honestly, for a Cummins, a 100k is just breaking in.

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[Corkey]

I was considering something like Xonic or ARP 2000 since I'm more going for securing the head down better since the biggest I'll go is an S364 or s366.

I am not shooting for big power.

I don't want to do another VGT.

I've already replaced the actuator once.

If it we're me, Go with ARP.

The 425 or 625 will be not only a one time buy. But they have the solid reputation with MILLIONS of miles on there product, with practically no defective studs.

As far as exotic goes, you're playing with fire.

We have a few threads about their scenario's pertaining to a snapped stud while still recessed in the block.

Plus, I heard they recently went out of business not long ago.

Studs are designed to hold X amount of force, giving the power thrown to the motor as with providing relief to the customers.

Yes, there expensive but when towing heavy, running on max power levels, or smoking the rubber off, it's nice knowing your American money is benefiting you for " in most cases " longer than you'll have the truck.

Only thing I would double check on is a re-torque on the studs after a few hundred miles.

I would hate to see another member run down the same route with going a cheaper route on studs.

With ARP, that won't happen.

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[Chrisn162001]

One at a time is still a common thing. As long as head gasket is good before swap it will be good after swapping studs.

I only install 625s I don’t mess with arp2000 and definitely not exotics or any of the other off brands. Had exotics that stripped on first torque and had one snap after driving awhile.

A lot of dealers will be getting their shipments of 625s in in the next few weeks to a month. Industrial injection is taking preorders I’ve heard Linco performance is doing the same.

Word is next batch of 625s price is going up.


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