4th Gen 2012 RAM 3500 VGT / EB Issues?

[Char-lay_on_your_six]

I've been having problems with my turbo lately, and a bigger-than-usual event occurred today while driving home.

Date	Mileage	Description
Before June 2023	Before 170,100	Exhaust brake started skips/jumps when slowing down. I put it off in my head until I make some other repairs.
6/23/23	170,100	EB suddenly stops working altogether and can no longer hear turbo, but RaceME still reports it makes boost. P1593 P0593 P0591 P0581 P0579 P2509 U010C codes come on.
Between 6/23/23 and 8/1/23	171,695	Found ripped ground strap (I think it was G114), fixed, and most codes went away. U010C (Lost Comm with Turbo) remains.
8/10/23	172,332	P226C (Turbocharger boost control slow response) came on.
Since 6/23/23		I occasionally hear the turbo do a little "blip" of the EB coming on. I have been driving lighter to avoid high EGTs due to a lack of proper VGT performance.
9/5/23 (today)	174,242	EB did a little blip earlier in the day. Driving home, turbo suddenly starts whistling like the EB is stuck on. Sounded similar to DRD's whistle tune. I could feel a pretty good power difference. It lasted approximately 5 minutes, then back to no EB, whistle, or turbo sound.
Today continued		Arrive home, grab Autel, no new codes. While the key was ON, I could hear the turbo actuator going crazy, actuating back and forth rapidly. It doesn't stop until the key is off.

Screenshot of VGT position data (Key ON, engine off):

Attachment 16146

Video of actuator going crazy from today:

Due to the above, I want to say this sounds more like an electrical issue.

I've tried:

- Testing the grounds around the turbo (I couldn't find a diagram of which one the turbo is actually connected to)
- Took out the TIPM, took it apart, and cleaned it. Tested every fuse and relay.
- I ran the truck harder to clear soot or build up. I didn't want to run too hard.

A post I found had similar issues and ended up being a faulty Emissions Control Module.

Does anyone know where that is?

I'm going to try DDP's turbo code guide troubleshooting.

Do you all agree, or does this sound like the turbo is done for? Any thoughts?

As much as I want to do the 2nd Gen swap, it's not in the budget right now due to surprise new tires related to another issue.

So, if the turbo has gone bad, are there any particular issues I need to look out for while driving it around until I can replace it?

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[Corkey]

What I would look at is the actual vs. desired vane position.

They should be very close together.

If it's not following closely, the actuator is failing.

On a side note, city diesel actuators have just the actuator you can buy instead of the whole turbo price attached.

They also come pre-calibrated for you.

It's much cheaper, which can get you by until you get your 2nd Gen kit.

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[AK Bob]

Also, check out the information in the link below.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...GT-Turbo-Issue

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

VGT position when key ON, engine off:

20230906_070105.jpg

Would the actuator going crazy be actuator-related?

I would have thought that would be more of an electrical issue.

I will try troubleshooting the electrical side today with the DDP guide and the information from the thread AK Bob linked.

Hopefully, that turns up some answers.

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[AK Bob]

VGT position when key ON, engine off:

20230906_070105.jpg

Would the actuator going crazy be actuator-related?

I would have thought that would be more of an electrical issue.

I will try troubleshooting the electrical side today with the DDP guide and the information from the thread AK Bob linked.

Hopefully, that turns up some answers.

Usually the P226C code indicates the turbo vanes are sticking, however I experienced this code intermittently prior to replacing my actuator with one from City Diesel. In my case I didn’t have any other codes or VGT issues, just a small coolant leak at the actuator. When I replaced the actuator I performed the recommended check to make sure the vanes moved freely and easily from stop to stop. The P226C code has never returned since replacing the actuator just over two years ago.

In your case you also have the U010C code that can be caused by an issue on the J1939 bus, the actuator wiring or actuator.

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

I forgot to mention that the P226C code is stored and inactive, so it would also be intermittent for me.

The U010C code is active.

I started the process of looking at the bus and actuator wiring.

Is a 2012 RAM 3500 a late model or an early model?

DDP's guide mentions, "...on the late model the wire order goes "ground, can low, can high, power," but on the early model it goes "power, ground, can high, can low"...".

I'm looking for 115 to 125 ohms on the can high and low pins.

Testing the middle two, I got 19.54 k.ohms on the actuator side and 143.1 k.ohms on the harness side.

Testing the other two, I got 120 ohms for both sides.

If it's an early model, the can bus system is okay.

I stopped there since I'm electrically challenged and didn't want to gather the wrong data.

AK Bob, was that the only indicator that your actuator might be bad?

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[AK Bob]

I forgot to mention that the P226C code is stored and inactive, so it would also be intermittent for me.

The U010C code is active.

I started the process of looking at the bus and actuator wiring.

Is a 2012 RAM 3500 a late model or an early model?

DDP's guide mentions, "...on the late model the wire order goes "ground, can low, can high, power," but on the early model it goes "power, ground, can high, can low"...".

I'm looking for 115 to 125 ohms on the can high and low pins.

Testing the middle two, I got 19.54 k.ohms on the actuator side and 143.1 k.ohms on the harness side.

Testing the other two, I got 120 ohms for both sides.

If it's an early model, the can bus system is okay.

I stopped there since I'm electrically challenged and didn't want to gather the wrong data.

AK Bob, was that the only indicator that your actuator might be bad?

Yes, the 2007-2012 are considered early models.

With 2013-2021 being the late models.

Yes, the only indications were the intermittent P226C codes and leaking coolant from the actuator.

When I removed the actuator to check the vane movement, I noticed some coolant had found its way from the coolant cavity to the gear cavity, where a few drops had found their way to the circuit board.

This was evident with a white powdery substance stain.

I agree; your CAN bus is checking out as okay.

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

That eliminates one thing, which is great because just seeing the words CAN bus is daunting.

There are no updates so far, but here is an interesting video of the turbo actuator going crazy from 2 days ago:



This is with the Key ON engine OFF.

It takes place after the event two days ago, as described above.

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[AK Bob]

That eliminates one thing, which is great because just seeing the words CAN bus is daunting.

There are no updates so far, but here is an interesting video of the turbo actuator going crazy from 2 days ago:



This is with the Key ON engine OFF.

It takes place after the event two days ago, as described above.

That’s crazy, and I think the electronics in the actuator are likely causing this issue.

I would replace it.

While removed, check for any turbo vane sticking issues or turbo gear paw damage.

Unfortunately, you won’t know until you remove the actuator and have the new one in hand.

If the turbo is bad, you will be looking for a new one minus the actuator.

The other more expensive option would be replacing the turbo with an actuator with something like the Fleece Cheta.

The City Diesel actuator has a stronger motor better electronics, and doesn’t require any calibration when installing.

A word of caution, though: the City Diesel actuator will not work with the sound tunes.

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[watersupply189]

@AK Bob, I thought it wouldn't work with the whistle tune.

Does it affect all sound tunes?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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