CEL With A Mess Of Codes?

[ddsneversummer]

I am giving this another quick update.

I did install a new alternator (and ended up going with the Mechman 'high' output (240 Amps).

It improved the voltage, but it is still stuck under 14 V (temps have been between 14 and 35 F). I saw the max read 14 V once.

I recently got an MM3, and when I grabbed the DTCs, a new one popped up and lost connection to the intelligent battery sensor.

That one did NOT show on my little OBDII/Torque Pro app.

That was also the ONLY DTC showing on the MM3.

I will check the grounds and the crossover cable this weekend and then replace that sensor.

Again, I will update the initial post once I get this sorted.

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[F350Cummins]

I am giving this another quick update.

I did install a new alternator (and ended up going with the Mechman 'high' output (240 Amps).

It improved the voltage but is still stuck under 14 V (temps have been between 14 and 35 F). I saw the max read 14 V once.

I recently got an MM3, and when I grabbed the DTCs, a new one popped up and lost connection to the intelligent battery sensor.

That one did NOT show on my little OBDII/Torque Pro app.

That was also the ONLY DTC showing on the MM3.

I will check the grounds and the crossover cable this weekend and then replace that sensor.

Again, I will update the initial post once I get this sorted.

The IBMS Intelligent Battery Monitoring System on these units SUCKS.

I have threads about a 2018 work truck that was at the dealer for this for AGES, and it would randomly kill off electronics and such.

The final solution was put into the thread, but it was actually to disable it.

I forget how, though.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...l=1#post212021

I will reach out to the guys I know that still work there, since I no longer do, and see how the outcome was since I didn't note it.

I do know it was fixed.

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[AK Bob]

The IBMS Intelligent Battery Monitoring System on these units SUCKS.

I have threads about a 2018 work truck that was at the dealer for this for AGES, and it would randomly kill off electronics and such.

The final solution was put into the thread, but it was actually to disable it.

I forget how, though.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...l=1#post212021

I will reach out to the guys I know that still work there, since I no longer do, and see how the outcome was since I didn't note it.

I do know it was fixed.

Thanks, I had forgotten about that case.

It will be interesting and beneficial for us to know what the final fix was.

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[ddsneversummer]

Partial update and 3 questions.

Update: I have replaced both batteries.

The 'old' ones were a year old and tested well, but I wanted to be sure.

I also replaced the intelligent battery sensor.
I also cleaned the left side front wheel well ground, the ground by the fuse box in the engine bay, and all of the battery connections and associated wire junctions.

I know I have a couple more grounds to do, and I will take care of those hopefully this weekend.

I am still barely hitting 14V (it's been below zero for a few days).

I still get the U113E intelligent battery sensor error

Questions:

1) Does anyone have a pdf on troubleshooting the intelligent battery sensor? Specifically the voltage at the harness side and key position.

2) Does anyone have a pdf on troubleshooting the battery/crossover cables? Looking for steps and values, if possible.

3) Does anyone know how many lengths I need for the 2/0 battery, crossover, and ground cables?

I can crimp the ends myself, but I'd like to know what lengths to order the 2/0.

I appreciate it!

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[AK Bob]

Partial update and 3 questions.

Update: I have replaced both batteries.

The 'old' ones were a year old and tested well, but I wanted to be sure.

I also replaced the intelligent battery sensor.
I also cleaned the left side front wheel well ground, the ground by the fuse box in the engine bay, and all of the battery connections and associated wire junctions.

I know I have a couple more grounds to do, and I will take care of those hopefully this weekend.

I am still barely hitting 14V (it's been below zero for a few days).

I still get the U113E intelligent battery sensor error

Questions:

1) Does anyone have a pdf on troubleshooting the intelligent battery sensor? Specifically the voltage at the harness side and key position.

2) Does anyone have a pdf on troubleshooting the battery/crossover cables? Looking for steps and values, if possible.

3) Does anyone know how many lengths I need for the 2/0 battery, crossover, and ground cables?

I can crimp the ends myself, but I'd like to know what lengths to order the 2/0.

I appreciate it!

All I have is this troubleshooting information on the U113E trouble code see attached.

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[ddsneversummer]

All I have is this troubleshooting information on the U113E trouble code see attached.

Thank you!

Maybe the 2/0 cables will have to wait until this summer when I can park my truck and drive my car.

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[AK Bob]

Thank you!

Maybe the 2/0 cables will have to wait until this summer when I can park my truck and drive my car.

Once you restore LIN Bus communication with the IBS, the charging voltage issue will be resolved.

Start by checking fuse F52.

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[inline6c]

I would suggest checking the solenoid that powers your grid heater.

They can get stuck in the open position, constantly powering your grid heater.

They draw ALOT of amperage, and when stuck open, it will rob power from all your other electrical components, causing issues like yours.

A simple, fast, and completely free way to check is to find the solenoid between the passenger battery and the air box.

It's slightly under the air intake tube.

Take off the black wire (the wire running to your grid heater).

Mine stays disconnected.

If you are unfamiliar with the notorious Grid Heater bolt melting away due to the solenoid sticking, you should check into it.

Bad, bad things happen to your motor $$$

Sent from my moto g power 5G - 2023 using Tapatalk

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[ddsneversummer]

I am not sure how I missed these messages, so I apologize for the late replies

Once you restore LIN Bus communication with the IBS, the charging voltage issue will be resolved.

Start by checking fuse F52.

I will check/replace that tonight, thank you!

I did try to check the harness side of the IB sensor and wasn't seeing voltage, but it was tough getting in there.

I'll verify the fuse, though, and hopefully check for continuity between the BCM and IB sensor as well.

I would suggest checking the solenoid that powers your grid heater.

They can get stuck in the open position, constantly powering your grid heater.

They draw ALOT of amperage, and when stuck open, it will rob power from all your other electrical components, causing issues like yours.

A simple, fast, and completely free way to check is to find the solenoid between the passenger battery and the air box.

It's slightly under the air intake tube.

Take off the black wire (the wire running to your grid heater).

Mine stays disconnected.

If you are unfamiliar with the notorious Grid Heater bolt melting away due to the solenoid sticking, you should check into it.

Bad, bad things happen to your motor $$$

Sent from my moto g power 5G - 2023 using Tapatalk

Interesting. I will check this out as well.

I am finishing my Glacier Diesel install tonight (new intake plenum and MegaFlo TVM Heater).

I've been checking the cable to ensure that bolt doesn't drop, but this is way less hassle.

If my grid heater relay were stuck, would I still have the grid heater rpm changes when it first started?

And if I were to remove/disconnect the relay, I assume I would lose the grid heater.

I'll probably replace the relay just to be done with it.

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[AK Bob]

I am not sure how I missed these messages, so I apologize for the late replies

I will check/replace that tonight, thank you!

I did try to check the harness side of the IB sensor and wasn't seeing voltage, but it was tough getting in there.

I'll verify the fuse, though, and hopefully check for continuity between the BCM and IB sensor as well.

Interesting. I will check this out as well.

I am finishing my Glacier Diesel install tonight (new intake plenum and MegaFlo TVM Heater).

I've been checking the cable to ensure that bolt doesn't drop, but this is way less hassle.

If my grid heater relay were stuck, would I still have the grid heater rpm changes when it first started?

And if I were to remove/disconnect the relay, I assume I would lose the grid heater.

I'll probably replace the relay just to be done with it.

If your grid heater relay is stuck closed, you will have a continuous 240 Amp draw.

The easiest way to check for this is to clamp a DC current clamp around the wire going to the grid heater.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DTDCG7T...G7DGV2B_1&th=1

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