IGOTA...

[toyota_mdt_tech]

...nother water leak.

Man, first, third brake light, cab baffles, and now the driver's front floor from a body seam under the front fender.

There is a TSB for it, but it shows 2016-2022, and it also fits my leak to a T.

It's small, but it can collect lots of water over time if left.

I suspect the passenger side could have the same issues.

So, I will take off LF Fender the next nice day and seal it.

I will post the TSB on it tonight.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, doing research, it seems a spot welded overlapped body panel gets water from A-pillar runoff.

You will see the joint if you lift the lower windshield rubber mounding in the corners.

Clear it with compressed air, then clean it of all debris and dirt.

Clean the painted surface with a brake cleaner and blow dry.

I used Gorilla spray on a white rubber sealer that comes in clear and black.

My truck is white.

So, to check for this leak, pull off the sill plate, which will include kick panels, and lift the carpet up.

Is there any water in there?

The carpet has a rubber membrane and sets away from the floor because of a foam pad and waterproof backing, so a visual is the best way to check.

I do not feel like a wet carpet.

There is a bulletin pointing to 2016 and later, but it applies to my 2010, too.

They want you to remove the full fender and seal down this seam, but sealing the corner seems to have cured mine.

I have had rear cab baffles and a rear high-mount stop lamp.

It has been plagued with water leaks for the last few years.

No harm done; I caught it ASAP and corrected it.

There was never mold, soaked carpets, or smell, so it wasn't too bad.

Hopefully, I am done with water leaks.

Here it is, shown in black; it comes in white and clear and is about $15 a can.

With good weather this weekend, I may try to get that black tape off the door pillars, which now look ugly and chalky.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, I dove into this, had all the gear to seal any body seams, and had the carpet live up to dry, and it did.

Planned on going in and pulling LF fender.

After removing the inner fender panel, I pulled it out and saw the cowl area drain hole with some debris sticking out.

So I poked a tool in there to pull it out and dumped some water on an inlet above it, but nothing ran out.

I ran a stiff wire up the outlet, and it all broke loose, debris, and out can my water.

It was dammed up tig; nothing I added made it past the blockage.

I do have the Powerwagon over-flares, a factory RAM accessory I added because my Laramie allows were an inch further out, probably because of the offset.

All Laramies came with pained-to-match flares.

Mine are black. I bought a brand new set, as mine were chalking out a bit, and I went ahead and installed the LF one.

So probably going to tackle the RF tomorrow, no leaks, but I know it will.

This is the best and easiest way to undo it.

While I have this cowl cover off tomorrow, I will add some 1/4" galvanized mesh over the heater inlet if none is in place to keep mice out of the heater.

This is just a follow-up for those who may have this issue later.

This is the best way to deal with it.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

The TSB for those body seams is here.

OK, for some reason, the bulletin is not working now.

It was a PDF file.

OK, I posted it differently, and it worked.

I took a drawing from the bulletin and circled the drain area in green.

The metal may have a 3/8" gap at the bottom to drain water.

My truck doesn't live under trees, but it has debris.

Attachment 16898

The red circle was already there; pay attention to the green circle.

cowldrain.jpg

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