A/C Pressure Question

[goreje]

Yes sir.

The plan is to replace the expansion valve, compressor, and condenser.

I don't know if the compressor is bad, so I assume it's safer to do it while I unhook everything.

I'll back flush the lines and the EVAP to attempt to remove oil and any compressor particles (if the compressor failed).

The compressor will come filled with oil.

Do I need to dump the oil and measure, then add it back to the compressor?

Do I need to add additional oil since I am replacing the condenser?

As you all can see from the thread, I am going at this blind as a bat.

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[AK Bob]

Yes sir.

The plan is to replace the expansion valve, compressor, and condenser.

I don't know if the compressor is bad, so I assume it's safer to do it while I unhook everything.

I'll back flush the lines and the EVAP to attempt to remove oil and any compressor particles (if the compressor failed).

The compressor will come filled with oil.

Do I need to dump the oil and measure, then add it back to the compressor?

Do I need to add additional oil since I am replacing the condenser?

As you all can see from the thread, I am going at this blind as a bat.

See attached information on refrigerant oil capacity.

Looks like you need to end up with 6 oz in the system.

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[sootmaster]

Hello, I wouldn't change the expansion valve or compressor if I were you.

If indeed just a rock chip hole, this just expelled the freon.

Changing and flushing just reduced your bank account.

If the mileage truck is not 100k +.

Take the condenser lines off and see what oil comes out.

If black and particles glitter, then condemn the compressor.

But when I do AC service, no matter who has the compressor, I drain in a chemical graduated beaker or cup for an amount of oil.

I would suggest condensing it with 2oz of oil and refilling it.

Whatever path, the total oil charge amount in the dry flushed system should be on the decal tag in the engine compartment.

This shows the oil charge for the AC system you are using.

Also, the workshop manual is under the AC specifications.


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[goreje]

Hello, I wouldn't change the expansion valve or compressor if I were you.

If indeed just a rock chip hole, this just expelled the freon.

Changing and flushing just reduced your bank account.

If the mileage truck is not 100k +.

Take the condenser lines off and see what oil comes out.

If black and particles glitter, then condemn the compressor.

But when I do AC service, no matter who has the compressor, I drain in a chemical graduated beaker or cup for an amount of oil.

I would suggest condensing it with 2oz of oil and refilling it.

Whatever path, the total oil charge amount in the dry flushed system should be on the decal tag in the engine compartment.

This shows the oil charge for the AC system you are using.

Also, the workshop manual is under the AC specifications.


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Well, I would prefer to do the condenser.

The issue I have is I don't know how much oil is still in the system.

I bought a manifold set from Harbor Freight that was missing the seal on one end of the yellow line.

That's where I lost some R134a and at least 1/2 - 3/4 cup (4-6oz) of what I assume to have been oil mixed with green dye.

When I realized where it was leaking, it was oozing out the yellow line connection on the manifold, and I basically filled the yellow line with the stuff.

I let it drain into my oil change pan.

Then there's the fact that I don't want to tear into the system twice (if I don't have to) if the compressor is bad and the expansion valve is clogged or inoperable (it has 144,000 miles on the odometer).

If I were more experienced with the A/C system or knew how to verify that the compressor was good, I'd just flush everything, replace the condenser, drain the oil from the current compressor, add the stated amount on the tag under the hood, and call it good after charging to 1.19Lbs of R134a.

It's a hard decision: patch what I know is bad and hope for the best, or spend the money, replace what "might" be bad, and move on.

The plan is to add another 150,000 to 200,000 miles before getting another truck.


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[diesel_dawg]

As mentioned before, if your oil looks clean when you remove the condenser, I wouldn’t throw a compressor on it when yours seems capable of building head pressure with the right charge.

When you pull a vacuum, after the first 10 minutes or so, just let it sit and set a timer for 15-20 minutes.

If you hold your vacuum, you’re good and shouldn’t worry.

Pull the vacuum and charge er up.

Do what you’re comfortable with!

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[goreje]

Well, I haven’t reported back because I have ZERO answers.

I don’t know what happened, but everything is working now.

I spent about a month to 1-1/2 months riding with the windows down in the Texas heat, and then one evening, on my drive home from work, it was raining, and windows down wasn’t an option.

So, I turned the A/C on to at least have some airflow.

About two miles in stop-and-go traffic, the fan clutch kicked in like it was supposed to, and the A/C has been working since.

I have no clue. The only thing I did to it was what was stated in the above posts.

I am swapping the clutch out in December, but as of July, it’s been working and cooling fine.

Glad for now that I didn’t waste to money and time on parts swapping.


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[sootmaster]

Hello, I was still confirming that the oil was very green.

With the flashlight, is there any glitter type in oil?

AC compressor seals are high graphite style seals that do not commonly wear fast.

I ask if black oil, when lines or from the AC gauge set, can confirm the oil color.

Glitter is metal to metal from the piston in the body, expelling metal once the seals wear beyond their cushion.

Reading gauges for worn compressors is good, as are pressures.

AC is off cold soaked also.

Usually, gauge pressure is about the same as outside air, but you need to have refrigerant at spec level to confirm or condemn the compressor.

Since the condenser had a wet spot or oily suspect rock chip, confirm with Harbor Freight UV or black light for dye present.

You can also see the UV from bug juice expelled from impact; don't confuse it for a leak.

On how much expelled from gauges, usually only about 2oz is in lines and gauge.

You're going to have to guess how much on the floor.

I have not seen 4-8oz from the system expelled because it is not running, the compressor is not pumping, and it has not been expelled out the high-pressure side.

Remember, it has freon and may appear foaming.

It's huge, but it's just not that bad.

Let's say that in an accident and condenser crushed, I would only still only add HALF the total amount.

If you add too much oil, it will oil sludged the system, not cool, and raise the AC pressures due to oil through the expansion or face tube of whichever system you're working on!!

It will also cause your compressor to fail rapidly as well.

If the condsenor has a tank that holds the desiccant bag, that is mostly why we add only 2oz oil for dry BAG but not so much for a NONE bag system.

Some over-counter AC Freon bottles from Parts' houses have oil added.

Make sure you look.

As for 1.5 months, INOP, something else is happening there.

I would wait until it fails again for it to be determined that the fault is unknown.

Your testing is up to you.

A black light to see what was on the condenser, but over time, the system will leak to fault, if any, but over month now, I suspect other fault for ac that stops cooling.

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