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I made a bad call and drove through a flooded road.
The truck shut off and got it started after a few tries.
Ever since then, it's been behaving like it has a bad injector, white smoke, and rough idle until it's warm.
It also feels like I've lost a fair amount of power.
I still haven't installed my boost gauge, so I can't answer that question.
My codes are P060c and B2303.
Do you have any ideas of where to start?
2017 RAM Limited 2500
2nd Gen swap
Lift pump
Hello, how does the engine sound when cranking?
Is it even possible to disconnect the injection harness feeds and cranks without adding fuel?
The first inspection is for any water sitting in the intake system.
Look for puddles.
Unknown how much water was in the engine area.
I suspect the air filter was exposed to wind-driven air from the fan blade, so the engine stalled from water entry.
If you have a scan tool to kill injectors one at a time, you can see if any cyl RPM does not drop like others, meaning bent ROD-RODS.
The inspection also included connectors to ECM/PCM on the side of the block for water intrusion.
Visual Inspection of any connectors, unseat, and check for water.
I Use WD-40® Contact Cleaner - Electronics Cleaning Spray
To Clean any contamination or dirt for any connectors and circuits and modules.
As well as apply dielectric grease to connectors to prevent corrosion and repel any future water intrusion.
Last edited by sootmaster; 07-18-2024 at 11:58 AM.
07.5 4x4 Yukon Detroit locker Rear AAM Elect-Front Locker, DOR Front Arm, ATS/Destroke Allison 1000 Conversion W/All 3-Billet Shafts, My Stage-5+ Allison, ATS Five Star TQ Converter, ATS CoPilot, Turbo America Custom VGT, Steed Speed Manifold, (UpGrading Compound Pusher turbo s480 soon) Motorsports Diesel 100% over custom Injectors, MotorSports Diesel 10.6 CP3, AirDog II 165-5G, Rail Pressure Relief 1-Stage, Update Common Rail, Mishimoto Intercooler, ARP 425 Studs, Hamilton Springs,Ret,PR
Great advice above and the best place to start.
Attached is information on the two trouble codes.
I would try to see if you can clear them, I am not concerned about the wiper park switch but the one for the PCM.
Last edited by AK Bob; 07-18-2024 at 11:08 PM.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Did a kill test.
AlfaOBD says only to do the test when it's warm, but my idle is fine after warmup, so all cylinders react the same way.
Would doing it cold be harmful?
I also can't find the cylinder performance test anywhere in the menus, as I've come across people doing.
Also, the B2303 code is gone now, but that's the least of my worries.
I still need time to get into the connection cleaning.
A good cyl test shows possible engine rpm per cyl drop is even.
The reason it is warm is so all things are at manufactory specs, such as piston wall and oil and so forth so you can get less failure or false readings.
I would pull all connectors of ECU/PCM and examine them for water.
The longer you wait, the more corroded the terminals will be, as they are made of cheap tin and copper.
Also, water may be sitting in the module, which could cause circuit boards to fail.
When engines are hot and water is all over, the temperature changes, and rapid cooling pulls the water into the connector and module like a vacuum cleaner.
Last edited by sootmaster; 07-25-2024 at 03:14 PM.
I cleaned the connections with the spray.
They looked perfect when I disconnected them and dry.
It still runs weak, but the code is gone.
Only drove about fifteen minutes were spent driving, so maybe the code will take longer to show up.
I'll see what happens tomorrow.
It persists, but the code is staying off.
I cannot see any signs of water.
Since I have most of the signs of a leaking injector (white smoke on a cold start, making oil, loss of power, injector knock), should I start looking for all new injectors?
I'm at about 102,000 miles.
Figure it makes sense to do all six at that point.
Or is there another option first?
If you are not losing any coolant and the white smoke smells like fuel, I agree with replacing the injectors.
You could cap off one at a time on the fuel rail to see which one is leaking, but as you said, with the mileage, I would go ahead and replace them all.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Is it necessary to replace the hard lines while doing this?
I understand the supply tubes going through the head should be replaced simultaneously.
No, the hard lines are reusable and should not need replacing.Originally Posted by n_hall
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
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