Component Set Or Door/Dash?

[Power247]

I did seem to get some improvement with installing new 3.5" dash speakers, but I don't want to invest too much in all of this.

My goal was to increase the light sound quality.

So, two amps won't work well in the same setup?

The only installs that seemed successful required routing the speaker level inputs from the doors and dash speakers into a DSP to sum all the frequencies and then feed those signals into an aftermarket amp and then to the speakers. Like I said, rabbit hole

The dash speakers are an easy improvement because of how cheap the factory ones are. The front speakers are very limited by the frequencies the factory Amp sends them. If you can exchange the 3 ohm door speakers for some 2 ohm components that will give you more improvement but just keep.your expectations low.

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[jgruberman]

The only installs that seemed successful required routing the speaker level inputs from the doors and dash speakers into a DSP to sum all the frequencies and then feed those signals into an aftermarket amp and then to the speakers. Like I said, rabbit hole

The dash speakers are an easy improvement because of how cheap the factory ones are. The front speakers are very limited by the frequencies the factory Amp sends them. If you can exchange the 3 ohm door speakers for some 2 ohm components that will give you more improvement but just keep.your expectations low.

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I was actually thinking about rewiring some of the speakers at the amp so the rear signal goes to the front as well so there is full passthrough for all drivers. Besides losing the faders, any thoughts on this?

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[Power247]

I was actually thinking about rewiring some of the speakers at the amp so the rear signal goes to the front as well so there is full passthrough for all drivers. Besides losing the faders, any thoughts on this?

Thats an interesting solution. Repinned the harness at the amp to swap the front and back door signal would work. You would have to keep the fader at 0 but otherwise that should work well.

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[jgruberman]

Thats an interesting solution. Repinned the harness at the amp to swap the front and back door signal would work. You would have to keep the fader at 0 but otherwise that should work well.

I would have to do a little bit of math to figure out how the speakers would need to be wired to maintain the same impedance. I know there are some websites out there also that will give you the proper wiring if you just input the speaker quantity and impedance of each speaker.

I don't follow about the door chimes for the front and back doors, I assume you mean when the vehicle knows one of the doors has been opened? I might need to have some sort of pin out of the actual factory amp

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[Power247]

Sorry, when I said signal, I meant the sound from the Amp. If you repin to swap the front and back door speakers then when you fade to the front it would control the sound to the dash and back doors which would sound odd I think.

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[jgruberman]

Sorry, when I said signal, I meant the sound from the Amp. If you repin to swap the front and back door speakers then when you fade to the front it would control the sound to the dash and back doors which would sound odd I think.

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Oh I wouldn't plan on using the fade whatsoever. I would wire the left and the right correctly but understand that I lose the front to back fading with the splicing that I do. The attached diagram is what I was thinking about doing, just replace the three ohm images The attached diagram is what I was thinking about doing. Just replace the 4 ohm images with 3 and then you get the exact same impedance back at the source after all of the speakers, which in my case would be 8 on the right side and 8 on the left side, "all in the back".

Thoughts? Feel free to DM me in case you want to talk more "car audio thoughts/reliving our youth"

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[Power247]

Oh I wouldn't plan on using the fade whatsoever. I would wire the left and the right correctly but understand that I lose the front to back fading with the splicing that I do. The attached diagram is what I was thinking about doing, just replace the three ohm images The attached diagram is what I was thinking about doing. Just replace the 4 ohm images with 3 and then you get the exact same impedance back at the source after all of the speakers, which in my case would be 8 on the right side and 8 on the left side, "all in the back".

Thoughts? Feel free to DM me in case you want to talk more "car audio thoughts/reliving our youth"

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7cac52bbe7.jpg

I had some diagrams showing how the power output from the amp was split beteen all the speakers. Unfortunately not having any luck finding it. I was able to find a screenshot I took that shows how the frequencies are split up between all the speakers. Its old but gives a good idea of what's going on even if the exact points have changed since then. DM incoming
Screenshot 2024-08-02 093111.jpg

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