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Thread: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

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    Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    I am about to go through the process of upgrading my speakers.

    Nothing crazy right now, I just want some upgraded sound quality.

    I noticed that the front door speaker sounded extremely dull, and that got me thinking of upgrading them.

    I'm debating whether or not I should upgrade the door speakers to a component set and install the tweeter in the dash side locations or if I should put an independent driver in the door (6.5 or 6x9) and then replace the corner dash speakers with their equivalent 3 and 1/2 in size.

    Has anyone done either, or maybe both? I'm looking to get some feedback on what might be best for these trucks.

    Like I said before, I have no desire to go crazy and go for an SQ level system, just some light upgrades.

    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk


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    Watch Dog! Corkey's Avatar

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    I would go with a solid set of 3 ways instead of having to drill into the dash.

    That's just me.

    I've been out of the whole audio realm since high school, LOL; they probably have some wicked stuff out nowadays.

    II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    I'm the same; I'm too old to hear half the notes anyway

    However, I still know.

    Let me post what I've learned in the last few days.

    The speakers in the dash and doors are 2.7ohm with a multimeter(3ohm rated). I ended up buying a set of 3.5" JBL speakers and a set of 6.5" JBL speakers, both 3 ohms, because I didn't want to screw with the wiring configuration and just wanted to plug and play.

    Firstly, the dash sounds vastly improved; it's just that tiny swap-out.

    Secondly, the doors are the home.

    I discovered this because the factory amp in the truck has a built-in crossover for the front speakers.

    So the doors get the lows, and the dash gets the mids/highs.

    If I want anything other than muffled lows from the doors, I will have to install an aftermarket amp for the speakers and wire the door and dash to that amp.

    I will most likely leave the center dash speaker alone and the back doors alone.

    This is where I'm sitting now.

    It would be great if I could figure out where the wiring for all these speakers is running, but I don't know how to find that out without just following the wires.

    If I can figure out where they are run, I can at least plan an amp installation better.

    I am thinking of doing a small Class D amp, something like this: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-...?skuId=6409449

    I went to Best Buy to check out the size and get a visual of everything, and it will work well.

    I need to sort of plan how I'm doing the wiring before I buy (more) stuff.


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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Attached is the OEM wiring diagram for the 2014 Crew Cab Base radio system with all connector and splice locations.

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    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Quote Originally Posted by AK Bob View Post
    Attached is the OEM wiring diagram for the 2014 Crew Cab Base radio system with all connector and splice locations.
    Thanks, Bob!

    Are you able to provide the 9-speaker alpine version for a mega cab?


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    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Quote Originally Posted by jgruberman View Post
    Thanks, Bob!

    Are you able to provide the 9-speaker alpine version for a mega cab?
    Attached is the wiring diagram for the Premium radio from AllData.

    They do not provide the locations for the connectors and splices, but if you list the ones you need, I will look them up in the OEM information and attach them tomorrow.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  12. Top Of Page | #7

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Quote Originally Posted by AK Bob View Post
    Attached is the wiring diagram for the Premium radio from AllData.

    They do not provide the locations for the connectors and splices, but if you list the ones you need, I will look them up in the OEM information and attach them tomorrow.
    I primarily want to know where all of the front speakers run; I am planning to run those into an amp and need to pick the best possible spot for splicing into all of them.

    Thanks in advance!


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  14. Top Of Page | #8
    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    I hate that I missed this when you posted it initially.

    Several years ago, I went down this rabbit hole with my 2012 crew cab, which also had the Alpine system.

    I have a build thread here in the audio section outlining my efforts.

    For my front doors, I used 2ohm drivers from a component set.

    They provided increased volume, but we're still muddy due to the factory crossover points.

    Adding an additional amp behind the factory Alpine amp presents many problems.

    The way it splits up the signals is a mess.

    If you want to improve the sound quality and volume, replacing the HU is much easier and cheaper.

    Then you can use the factory amp to power the speakers it does well, like the dash and back doors, and an amp & run new wires to the ones it doesn't, like the front doors and sub.

    Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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  16. Top Of Page | #9

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Quote Originally Posted by Power247 View Post
    I hate that I missed this when you posted it initially.

    Several years ago, I went down this rabbit hole with my 2012 crew cab, which also had the Alpine system.

    I have a build thread here in the audio section outlining my efforts.

    For my front doors, I used 2ohm drivers from a component set.

    They provided increased volume, but we're still muddy due to the factory crossover points.

    Adding an additional amp behind the factory Alpine amp presents many problems.

    The way it splits up the signals is a mess.

    If you want to improve the sound quality and volume, replacing the HU is much easier and cheaper.

    Then you can use the factory amp to power the speakers it does well, like the dash and back doors, and an amp & run new wires to the ones it doesn't, like the front doors and sub.

    Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
    I did seem to get some improvement with installing new 3.5" dash speakers, but I don't want to invest too much in all of this.

    My goal was to increase the light sound quality.

    So, two amps won't work well in the same setup?


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  18. Top Of Page | #10
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Component Set Or Door/Dash?

    Quote Originally Posted by jgruberman View Post
    I primarily want to know where all of the front speakers run; I am planning to run those into an amp and need to pick the best possible spot for splicing into all of them.

    Thanks in advance!
    Great advice from @Power247 sounds like the best way to go.

    https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...-Audio-Upgrade

    Looking over the OEM information the best place to pickup all the speaker wires is at the C1 and C2 connectors on the amplifier radio.

    Last edited by AK Bob; 07-27-2024 at 12:21 PM. Reason: Added link
    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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