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For me, I would like the circulation flow from the Cyl#6 area heater hoses do allow flow from that area back to the intake of the water pump.
Similar to the rear freeze plug bypass, it has so many uses.
I use and install a valve on many limos where I like to control the heater core heat.
www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/heater-control-valve/p/four-seasons-heater-control-valve-84707/
07.5 4x4 Yukon Detroit locker Rear AAM Elect-Front Locker, DOR Front Arm, ATS/Destroke Allison 1000 Conversion W/All 3-Billet Shafts, My Stage-5+ Allison, ATS Five Star TQ Converter, ATS CoPilot, Turbo America Custom VGT, Steed Speed Manifold, (UpGrading Compound Pusher turbo s480 soon) Motorsports Diesel 100% over custom Injectors, MotorSports Diesel 10.6 CP3, AirDog II 165-5G, Rail Pressure Relief 1-Stage, Update Common Rail, Mishimoto Intercooler, ARP 425 Studs, Hamilton Springs,Ret,PR
My 93 W250 has a vacuum-controlled valve from the factory that closes when you turn the AC to max cool.
I don't see any reason why adding a valve will hurt anything.
Last night I took the radio bezel out and removed the foam from the vents - it was in pretty rough shape.
I then added weather stripping.
It seems to have made a little bit of difference, but honestly I think the fan just sucks.
I really wish there was an aftermarket fan that blew harder.
If it's easy to get to the vents by the doors, I will do them as well.
However it doesn't look so simple.
2017 Ram 2500
The side vents pop out with a trim tool, so I removed those and replaced the foam with weather stripping.
This improved my airflow, but I would like more.
I also removed the blower motor.
It didn't spin as freely as I expected, and I could hear a little grinding, so I purchased another fan and compared them.
The new fan was worse, so the original went back in.
While the fan was removed, I took a picture of the evaporator core, which is clean.
2017 Ram 2500
I see you are looking in the right places; vent foam is some.
I would look at the top portion of the main case housing the EVAP core and where the dash duck sits on the HVAC case; when the dash is assembled and removed, this seal can dislodge,
Due to design, blow motors have a bronze bushing and two heavy brushes dragging as you spin; if you have huge deposits as you tip over and fall out, I would replace the otherwise normal.
Also, using the outside intake vent port on the firewall is smaller than the recir door intake behind the glove box.
You will feel an increased airflow going down the highway as windshield pressure pushes more air in under slight pressure.
When the truck is on a manual panel vent, close off the dash vents half and full to see if you can feel a lot of air out anywhere, then inspect the foam seal.
BG Evaporator service kit has a foam that cleans the core good, or the home HVAC supply has kits for cleaning home units that will help.
Never use harsh chemicals as the very thin aluminum!
Like anything with bleach, it can cause the evaporator to corrode and leak freon, ruining the core!
In my experience, customers who only use the outside air and even pollen filters always get by.
These sediments also can cause the core to corrode inspection and blow out anything sitting in the bottom of the case blower side of the core.
Last edited by sootmaster; 07-24-2024 at 09:52 AM.
Would you have an image or drawing of this?Originally Posted by sootmaster
I'm not sure where to look.
This is a great idea!
Thanks!
2017 Ram 2500
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
Blue area Dash sits above this area; this is mostly panel and defroster vents plenum; the opposite side is the air intake blower motor side.
Ouch!
I was hoping it would be easier to get to, LOL.
Thanks for the pic!
2017 Ram 2500
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