Electrical Short Disappearing?

[Jexxr]

This is for a 2016 RAM 2500, Laramie Limited.

So I've been looking for this issue a while. As a temp fix left a trickle charger on one of the batteries overnight.

Recently, whatever the short is has been drawing so hard that if I leave the batteries connected for 10 hours, they're too low to crank the engine (11 volts).

I've had no fuses blowing, and the only electrical issues noticed are turn signals fast blinking and headlight/plate light/tail light out messages popping up, which are probably unrelated.

Still, my turbo gauge dropped offline, the turbo module seems dead, and the exhaust brake is offline (thankfully, the exhaust brake vanes failed to open).

I've measured almost 2v(1.5-1.8) being drawn when I have one lead on the positive cables and the other on the disconnected negative, or the frame.

I pulled all fuses individually and there was no difference.

Here's the strange part that I just recently noticed.

The voltage of the short initially reads almost 2v after disconnecting both battery's negatives.

Then, over 5-10m, it will bleed down .1v at a time until it's around .5v draw, and then it just drops offline to around 250 millivolts(basically not shorted anymore).

Any ideas on this are appreciated.

Should I be looking at solenoids or somehow a magically slow release relay? PCM?

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[AK Bob]

This is for a 2016 RAM 2500, Laramie Limited.

So I've been looking for this issue a while. As a temp fix left a trickle charger on one of the batteries overnight.

Recently, whatever the short is has been drawing so hard that if I leave the batteries connected for 10 hours, they're too low to crank the engine (11 volts).

I've had no fuses blowing, and the only electrical issues noticed are turn signals fast blinking and headlight/plate light/tail light out messages popping up, which are probably unrelated.

Still, my turbo gauge dropped offline, the turbo module seems dead, and the exhaust brake is offline (thankfully, the exhaust brake vanes failed to open).

I've measured almost 2v(1.5-1.8) being drawn when I have one lead on the positive cables and the other on the disconnected negative, or the frame.

I pulled all fuses individually and there was no difference.

Here's the strange part that I just recently noticed.

The voltage of the short initially reads almost 2v after disconnecting both battery's negatives.

Then, over 5-10m, it will bleed down .1v at a time until it's around .5v draw, and then it just drops offline to around 250 millivolts(basically not shorted anymore).

Any ideas on this are appreciated.

Should I be looking at solenoids or somehow a magically slow release relay? PCM?

First, both batteries must be load-tested and replaced if needed.

Next, do a parasitic draw test; see the video below.

The testing must be done methodically; every time you pull a fuse and reinstall it disconnect and reconnect the battery, or open and close a door, you will wake up modules and must wait for them to go to sleep before continuing.

On your RAM, the normal current draw (with all modules asleep) is 13mA.

If you have your MM3 or RaceMe plugged in, you will see 138mA.

Allow 5 minutes for all modules to go to sleep.

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[Jexxr]

First, both batteries must be load-tested and replaced if needed.

Next, do a parasitic draw test; see the video below.

The testing must be done methodically; every time you pull a fuse and reinstall it disconnect and reconnect the battery, or open and close a door, you will wake up modules and must wait for them to go to sleep before continuing.

On your RAM, the normal current draw (with all modules asleep) is 13mA.

If you have your MM3 or RaceMe plugged in, you will see 138mA.

Allow 5 minutes for all modules to go to sleep.

Appreciate this!

I haven't watched the video yet, but I'm just looking off the bat.

Maybe my issue is that my meter is on voltage instead of amperage.

I'll try it again this way, but it will take ages to wait for sleep after each fuse, haha.

I still figured I would see an instant voltage loss if pulling a fuse that covers the short circuit.

I had originally thought I troubleshot it down to one of the direct power positive lines or that the battery crossover cable was being shorted somewhere.

The voltage/parasitic draw bleeding off over time makes it seem like something else now.

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