2015 Cummins 6.7 Deleted

**2015cummins123** · 07-11-2016

Hey guys. I am a first diesel owner and just recently deleted my 2015 Cummins with 44,000 miles myself. I have had issues already with my def system and wanted to avoid high costs associated in the future. I recently installed raceme ultra tuner, set on 60hp setting, 23 degree timing, with 4" flo pro exhaust delete, and egr delete. Before I did the egr delete i installed the programmer and exhaust and I noticed better power and mileage, but still had some turbo lag. After doing egr delete there was a big difference and engine was much more responsive. Well I now notice that any time under 60 mph while cruising I am running 2 to 4 psi turbo pressure where before it was 0psi. at 70 mph i am running between 3 and 5psi. WOT hits 29psi max mostly 26psi when i tried it out.

I work construction and wanted the delete for better mileage, more reliability, awesome sound, and a little more power. I do not beat this truck and rarely open it up pretty much a commuter. On a 60 hp tune with egr delete and no waste gate of any sort since the egr was removed am.

Is it ok running my truck like this without doing head studs or external waste gate?

Thanks!

Alex

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**IGOTACUMMINS** · 07-11-2016

@Double R Diesel?

🏁Join us a Lifetime Platinum Member today!🏁

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**DRD** · 07-11-2016

Originally Posted by 2015cummins123

Hey guys. I am a first diesel owner and just recently deleted my 2015 Cummins with 44,000 miles myself. I have had issues already with my def system and wanted to avoid high costs associated in the future. I recently installed raceme ultra tuner, set on 60hp setting, 23 degree timing, with 4" flo pro exhaust delete, and egr delete. Before I did the egr delete i installed the programmer and exhaust and I noticed better power and mileage, but still had some turbo lag. After doing egr delete there was a big difference and engine was much more responsive. Well I now notice that any time under 60 mph while cruising I am running 2 to 4 psi turbo pressure where before it was 0psi. at 70 mph i am running between 3 and 5psi. WOT hits 29psi max mostly 26psi when i tried it out.

I work construction and wanted the delete for better mileage, more reliability, awesome sound, and a little more power. I do not beat this truck and rarely open it up pretty much a commuter. On a 60 hp tune with egr delete and no waste gate of any sort since the egr was removed am.

Is it ok running my truck like this without doing head studs or external waste gate?

Thanks!

Alex

Absolutely. You are well within safe limits.

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

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**2015cummins123** · 07-11-2016

Thanks Ray I appreciate your quick response! I would like to do the head studs down the road maybe next summer, but with building a house I didn't want to spend the extra grand right now if i didn't have to

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**AnOldBiker** · 07-12-2016

I like this, joins the group and jumps in head first.
At a way @2015cummins123.

By the way ...

to the forum ... I see you will like it here ...

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**DanO** · 07-12-2016

@2015cummins123 Welcome! Glad to have you join us.

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**RATLIN'HP** · 07-12-2016

Welcome! Sounds like we have similar driving styles. I do run warp custom tuning now, but before that I wasn't hesitant to run 120 or 150 tunes. You will like the fuel mileage better there, and as long you drive as you explained you do, you won't have any issues.

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**2015cummins123** · 07-20-2016

Thanks I have been messing around a little bit with the different parameters and have noticed slight differences in mileage too. Has anyone noticed their cummins knocks pretty hard if you get on it real quick and then pull into the gas station? it knocks quite a bit harder for a little bit. Is this extra fuel and is this bad on the engine?

Surging issues anyone? Does anyone know if raceme is working on this?

Also, anyone notice that 120hp on 23* timing seems more doggy when lugging in 6th gear from lets say 65-75 then on the 60hp tune? The 120hp tune stays in starts out at timing of (-2*) most of the time and climbs to +5*, where 60hp is negative timing at first (-2*) and then starts climbing quick up to 12*. Reason I say this is because when punch it you can feel 120 has much more power when its running at higher timing levels, but all in all lugging and accelerating 60hp is much smoother more responsive effortless power. Does anyone notice this or maybe I have a bad tune? ha

Thanks Guys!

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**Fulldrawassassin** · 07-20-2016

Originally Posted by 2015cummins123

Thanks I have been messing around a little bit with the different parameters and have noticed slight differences in mileage too. Has anyone noticed their cummins knocks pretty hard if you get on it real quick and then pull into the gas station? it knocks quite a bit harder for a little bit. Is this extra fuel and is this bad on the engine?

Surging issues anyone? Does anyone know if raceme is working on this?

Also, anyone notice that 120hp on 23* timing seems more doggy when lugging in 6th gear from lets say 65-75 then on the 60hp tune? The 120hp tune stays in starts out at timing of (-2*) most of the time and climbs to +5*, where 60hp is negative timing at first (-2*) and then starts climbing quick up to 12*. Reason I say this is because when punch it you can feel 120 has much more power when its running at higher timing levels, but all in all lugging and accelerating 60hp is much smoother more responsive effortless power. Does anyone notice this or maybe I have a bad tune? ha

Thanks Guys!

I'm assuming you don't have Warp Tuning yet. I suggest you do because Ray's tuning is exceptional and the Cummins motor loves it.

For Box tuning you should follow this:
(I ran this and I drive just like you)

Run the latest firmware and put it on 200 HP duration, 29+ max timing, 1900 psi fuel rail. It yields the best mileage and as long as you drive right, you will never hurt your transmission. With Warp you can get tuning for the 68 RFE which is definitely the way to go. If you are like me and have the Aisin you are good to go already. Good luck and welcome to the club! Remember, stay away from power braking, 4x4 boost launches, and if you tow turn it down to 30-60 HP duration, with default settings on timing and fuel rail pressure.

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**2015cummins123** · 07-22-2016

Thanks for the info I am definitely going to look into warp tuning as that sounds like the way to go!! I'll give those settings a go to and see what mileage numbers I can achieve as well.

Do you or anyone know on the diesel knock/clatter after a quick brief hard acceleration and then coming to a stop? It has a whole different diesel knock sound then the normal. It only does it for 2-5 seconds tops only when you get on it hard briefly, to jet in front of someone lets say and come to a stop at a stoplight?

Just want to make sure this is normal and ok on my engine with the raceme. This is running on a 60hp tune, 23* degree timing, 1850 rail psi, and trans tuning. I'm assuming it must be the extra fuel or timing thrown at it, but for whatever reason it makes a bad sound at idle until it readjusts or burns the extra fuel.

Thanks a lot!

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