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Thread: EGR physical removal necessary?

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Basic Member sigiii66's Avatar

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    EGR physical removal necessary?

    Well I figured this would be the best place to post this since I'm still a n00b....

    So I finally got my XRT Pro (thank you Tyler at Truckwurx) and so now I need to either buy a DPF delete pipe to replace the pipe that holds the actual filter (and the catalytic converter???) ... so now my question is do I physically have to remove the EGR unit under the hood??? I spoke to someone at H&S and they said by updating my new tuner I can still use it for the purposes before the EPA had their crackdown, and this is what he/she had to say:

    "No, as the DPF is a physical Filter on the Exhaust, it has to be removed. There is no way around this if you want to run DPF Removed Tuning. Leaving the EGR in Place is okay, as it can be disabled electronically. If you choose to install "High Sulfur or Emissions Removed" Tuning, the EGR will be shut down automatically."

    Now I know it clearly says "Leaving the EGR in place is ok," however I just want to run it by you guys and get your opinon....should I leave it in place until I can eventually get the money for a full removal? I'm currently trying to save money for either an MBRP exhaust or just a DPF kit pipe for like $150 then new tires, so I'm hoping it can stay in place with no side-effects.

    Thanks for any input and sorry if this is in the wrong area.


    -Marc


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    As some know, I was one of the pioneers of the EGR delete back in 07.

    Electrically disconnecting is OK. However, the valve could leak exhaust into the intake. You need to block the port

    I came up with a way to block the tube with a dorman freeze plug. I think it was an 020-555 or 555-020. Can't remember. Drill a hole in it, put a bolt in it so you can get it out later if needed. Let the bolt stick out about an inch and install it. I never had a bit of trouble and it looked stock


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  4. Top Of Page | #3
    Basic Member sigiii66's Avatar

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    Re: EGR physical removal necessary?

    If I simply replace the DPF pipe and leave the egr in place do I need to get a senor to measure the EGTs if 99% I'm not hauling anything ?


  5. Top Of Page | #4
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    You can get a full set of those resistors. But there's only a 75% chance they will work

    There's like 12 ECU's which causes confusion


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  6. Top Of Page | #5
    Permanent Vacation Truckwurx's Avatar

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    Yes I would recommend a pyrometer, thats what I think he is he is asking Steve, It is cheap insurance.
    By the way good morning guys!!
    As far as the EGR, correct the valve is disabled, a block off plate is always again a good Idea, but it is definitely ok to drive as is til the budget allows


  7. Top Of Page | #6
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    You need to disable the flapper valve as well. Pull the plug on that too


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  8. Top Of Page | #7
    Basic Member sigiii66's Avatar

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    Re: EGR physical removal necessary?

    I've seen a few tutorials/threads on a few other sites on full DPF/EGR deletes so I guess I'm still learning .... so the both of you would recommend a full EGR block off???

    Should I:
    A) remove the EGR first and instal a blocker
    or
    B) install a pyrometer (that would have to include probably an edge screen as well since I only have an xrt pro)

    Right now I'm saving for a DPF replacement pipe then new tires/rims.....where should I go from there out of the two things listed above?


  9. Top Of Page | #8
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    You do not need to take the EGR off. The freeze plug trick is 2 bucks and a stop at the auto parts store. That's with the bolt


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  10. Top Of Page | #9
    Basic Member sigiii66's Avatar

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    Re: EGR physical removal necessary?

    Do you have a link to the thread with the install ?


  11. Top Of Page | #10
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    No the site I did it in is gone


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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