Optima battery replacement.

**VTA_slug** · 10-28-2017

Has anyone replaced their batteries with the optima red tops? My cranking apps have dropped and I'm looking to replace my batteries with the optima 34 red top. I'm just wondering if their are fitment issues or if I should get the 34/78 dual post that has the drop down terminals off the side because of the felt top cover.

Thanks for the info.
David

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**HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN** · 10-28-2017

I know on my second gen I installed the yellow top deep cycle Optima Batteries and loved them

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**VTA_slug** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN

I know on my second gen I installed the yellow top deep cycle Optima Batteries and loved them

Why yellow top? Is it because your 2nd gen isn't a daily driver?

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**HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by VTA_slug

Why yellow top? Is it because your 2nd gen isn't a daily driver?

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The yellow tops had higher CCA ratings then red top and 100% my truck was a daily driver

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**VTA_slug** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN

The yellow tops had higher CCA ratings then red top and 100% my truck was a daily driver

So they don't make a direct fit so I would go with a universal group 34. It's the closest in dimensions. As far as the CCA, @32f red top is 1000 and yellow top is @870. The only reason for me to go with a yellow deep cycle is if I was running a winch, sounds system, and tons of LEDs, which I have none of. Plus it's an extra $40-$50 per battery. Thanks for the input. It's always good to learn about this stuff.

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**Polaraco** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by VTA_slug

So they don't make a direct fit so I would go with a universal group 34. It's the closest in dimensions. As far as the CCA, @32f red top is 1000 and yellow top is @870. The only reason for me to go with a yellow deep cycle is if I was running a winch, sounds system, and tons of LEDs, which I have none of. Plus it's an extra $40-$50 per battery. Thanks for the input. It's always good to learn about this stuff.

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Not really. They seem to only have 6 sizes. in 3 different classifications.

A word of warning. They take longer to charge than lead acid. This time of year, the grid heaters suck power out unless you have a large alternator. (I just upgraded to a 180 from 136.) So for short hauls, like I do, they will drop off in charge level. You need to take it for a ride for 30 minutes or more to fully charge them. Even these monsters I have now take a good 20 minutes. We'll see what happens with this 180 alternator now.

My Optima's were driving me nuts for months with the MM3 tuner. It took a long time to diagnose what the problem was. I have a float charger I plug in with the block heater, but it wasn't big enough. I bought a 1.5 Amp float charger this year. Schumacher on Amazon has some refurbs for 25 bucks prime.

So if you do allot of short trips, by all means take it for a good ride. I don't know what year truck you have. The lighter the loads on the electrical system, the better to recharge. Keep the heater low, lights off, stuff like that.

The old man learned the hard way

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**AnOldBiker** · 10-28-2017

I've heard lots of people praise these batteries like it was the second coming of batteries.
Then ... I've heard many say it was the biggest waste of money.

I've been debating trying them myself.

One thing I's like to mention .. over the years, before I install new batteries, I put on a trickle charger and let them charge over night until they are fully charge before they go in. Haven't had an issue with them trying to get charged when 1st in and they seem to be better over time. In the old days I'd just threw them in and sometimes I had problems to get them to fully charge, and a couple time had to take them back to replace one or two. By trickle charging, never had a problem since. (an old man told me to try it and see what happens .. the old coot knew what he was talking about)

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**VTA_slug** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by Polaraco

Not really. They seem to only have 6 sizes. in 3 different classifications.

A word of warning. They take longer to charge than lead acid. This time of year, the grid heaters suck power out unless you have a large alternator. (I just upgraded to a 180 from 136.) So for short hauls, like I do, they will drop off in charge level. You need to take it for a ride for 30 minutes or more to fully charge them. Even these monsters I have now take a good 20 minutes. We'll see what happens with this 180 alternator now.

My Optima's were driving me nuts for months with the MM3 tuner. It took a long time to diagnose what the problem was. I have a float charger I plug in with the block heater, but it wasn't big enough. I bought a 1.5 Amp float charger this year. Schumacher on Amazon has some refurbs for 25 bucks prime.

So if you do allot of short trips, by all means take it for a good ride. I don't know what year truck you have. The lighter the loads on the electrical system, the better to recharge. Keep the heater low, lights off, stuff like that.

The old man learned the hard way

I've got a 2012 Ram 2500 with a h&s mini maxx tuner. Deleted DPF and a CA erg delete. I tow a 15k+ cyclone. In the last 2 weeks I've had to jump start my truck twice I've double checked my truck to find a draw and I couldn't find anything. It has the original Chrysler batteries so I figured it's the batteries that are getting old.

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**Polaraco** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by AnOldBiker

I've heard lots of people praise these batteries like it was the second coming of batteries.
Then ... I've heard many say it was the biggest waste of money.

I've been debating trying them myself.

One thing I's like to mention .. over the years, before I install new batteries, I put on a trickle charger and let them charge over night until they are fully charge before they go in. Haven't had an issue with them trying to get charged when 1st in and they seem to be better over time. In the old days I'd just threw them in and sometimes I had problems to get them to fully charge, and a couple time had to take them back to replace one or two. By trickle charging, never had a problem since. (an old man told me to try it and see what happens .. the old coot knew what he was talking about)

Me too when time allows. This last set took 3 days to bring them up with a 10 amp charger before I put them in. Darn things are only 2 months old when I got them.

I'm not talking down on them. I had them in my 08, but I drove more then. I scrapped them because they took to long to get back to 100%. Maybe th eupgraded alternator would have solved the problem

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**Polaraco** · 10-28-2017

Originally Posted by VTA_slug

I've got a 2012 Ram 2500 with a h&s mini maxx tuner. Deleted DPF and a CA erg delete. I tow a 15k+ cyclone. In the last 2 weeks I've had to jump start my truck twice I've double checked my truck to find a draw and I couldn't find anything. It has the original Chrysler batteries so I figured it's the batteries that are getting old.

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I would check your charging system before hand. Engine running with the heater on high, headlights on, you should be reading 14.5 volts + or - .2. I think the standard alternator on the 12 was a 180 amp.

You should be OK with the Gell Cells then.

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