It Has Begun - 2018 RAM 2500 "Low Carb" Lifestyle

[ricky_bobby]

So after the last couple months, my cliff notes as follows:
-The truck runs great even on a 30hp tune, I cannot complain about the engine one bit (I only complain about the slushbox 68RFE and my 3.42 gearing if anything).
-Maybe I would have spent the extra on the power levels and maybe run 60 hp as well as 30 to see which got better economy overall, however I wanted to go as easy on the 68RFE as I could so that's why I stuck with 30hp tune only.
-No regrets about doing the EGR physical delete, grid delete, or the GDP parts to relocate the heater to the throttle valve, as well as their intake horn, the engine bay is cleaner and I am not a fan of leaving parts in place that are not being used.
-Its a big investment and I only did it after my truck was paid for, and I knew based on inflation etc I wouldn't be going to buy a new truck any time soon, or had any plans on trading it in - My bumper to bumper was also up so I wasn't worried about that.

If I had a year old truck with 21k miles?
-I would dial it in with cosmetic mods such as tires, wheels, suspension first, and pay it off.
-You have a 2021 so you already have CP3 as far as I can tell.
-I would get the MM3 tuner, Flo Pro race pipes, and a 30" FTE resonator and call it a day, EGR stuff on the back end if you want to go for that.

But honestly, since I didn't see a wow difference in mileage etc, I probably would be a bit hesitant on a 2021 to throw all the money at a truck still under warranty, especially if it wasn't paid for.

I probably lost more mpg from leveling the truck than anything.

When it was first new and bone stock on 33" tires I saw an easy hand calculated 20-21mpg, about 22mpg on a trip to the mountains and back.

Hope that helps, if I can answer any more Q's let me know.

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[fordmanmike73]

I ordered most of my weight loss parts on Wednesday.

I'm giddy as a schoolgirl waiting for them to arrive!!

I feel like it's early Christmas!!

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[ricky_bobby]

My latest tank is after installing the Airraid intake tube, cleaning my AFE drop-in panel filter, and installing the GDP S2 Intake Horn kit.

475 miles, 350 highway miles, about 125 non-highway driving, all unloaded, no trailers, just stuff in the bed going to the beach and back 18.6 mpg hand calculated.

I am going to run the Exhaust Brake in "Auto" this tank as well as turn the Tow/Haul off and see if that helps or hurts mileage; I saw a few posts where guys who are getting good mpg are not using EB in Full for whatever reason (I guess it makes them decelerate too much, so they are constantly accelerating more).

I wished I got better mileage with my deletes, but I've found that the leveling/lift hurts fuel economy more than anything.

I saw a solid 2mpg drop-off when I leveled the truck, maybe 1mpg from the tires, but the level was the killer, and I am more of a 72mph highway cruiser.

I don't cruise at 80, so it's not my speed factor, either.

Either way, the truck runs great, and if I'm babying it, to get 20mpg with 35" tires and a level is nothing to slouch at.

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[watersupply189]

My latest tank is after installing the Airraid intake tube, cleaning my AFE drop-in panel filter, and installing the GDP S2 Intake Horn kit.

475 miles, 350 highway miles, about 125 non-highway driving, all unloaded, no trailers, just stuff in the bed going to the beach and back 18.6 mpg hand calculated.

I am going to run the Exhaust Brake in "Auto" this tank as well as turn the Tow/Haul off and see if that helps or hurts mileage; I saw a few posts where guys who are getting good mpg are not using EB in Full for whatever reason (I guess it makes them decelerate too much, so they are constantly accelerating more).

I wished I got better mileage with my deletes, but I've found that the leveling/lift hurts fuel economy more than anything.

I saw a solid 2mpg drop-off when I leveled the truck, maybe 1mpg from the tires, but the level was the killer, and I am more of a 72mph highway cruiser.

I don't cruise at 80, so it's not my speed factor, either.

Either way, the truck runs great, and if I'm babying it, to get 20mpg with 35" tires and a level is nothing to slouch at.

Yeah, that factory rake makes a huge difference in mpg’s.

I have mine leveled with 35’s and average 17-18 around town and about 22 on the highway running a 90hp on the whistle tune.

I always leave my EB on full.

Of course, I have a G56 which helps tremendously on mpg’s and saves my brake pads.

103k miles with the original pads that are not even to the halfway point yet.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[ricky_bobby]

G56 helps with the mileage.

I always recall my stick-shifted vehicles got better mileage than a similarly equipped automatic in the same model.

Happy to report that so far, this tank, leaving Tow/Haul 'off' and EB on green (auto), I am tracking to get about 1-1.5mpg better overall, so there are differences to be made.

I also need to adjust my psi up in front; I'm about 5psi low, usually running 65psi F and 50psi rear.

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[ricky_bobby]

Beginning my 68RFE VB upgrade journey as I would like to replace filters/fluid at an early age for the first service, approaching 28k miles now.

Revmax is the apparent first name, but some people can build these out perfectly without the fancy brand name, so I am looking into a private builder as well; sometimes, smaller outfits do just as well as the big shops.

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[ricky_bobby]

PPE Trans pans and Thermal bypasses are no longer made in the USA, so I'm looking into the following pans; they do not so much need increased capacity, but I do want a drain plug to delete the factory RTV gasket and use a proper one (I may even invest in the LubeLocker gasket to be double sure no leaks).

-Goerend (personally, my favorite if I can get it coated in black. I do like how it's not ultra-reinforced, and the drain plug is dead smack in the middle in the lowest point)
-Mag Hytec
-Revmax (which is a rebranded PML pan but thats OK as they make a great product)

Thermal Bypass I'll get from whoever I order pan from (Revmax, Randy's Juicebox, etc.)

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[cbitt]

Sorry I got distracted.

I went with the Goerend because I like the drain hole in the middle; it makes sense.

For the vb I also got studs from wp development https://www.wp-developments.com/prod.../68RFE-vb-stud

It took about a week to come in; it makes sense.

Revmax VB speaks for itself.

I finally tuned in yesterday, still babying it.

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[ricky_bobby]

I agree with both sentiments.

I may spring for the studs from WP Development as well.

Did you get billet Revmax VB?

My builder uses a DNJ channel plate and does a thorough job, so I know I will be happy with it.

I found a Goerend pan in stock to order, and getting it powder-coated locally, the drain in the middle, and making it not stronger than the case itself makes sense, as well as using a standard gasket and not dealing with RTV.

Have you noticed a difference between just babying it around and driving?

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[Collin42]

I agree with both sentiments.

I may spring for the studs from WP Development as well.

Did you get billet Revmax VB?

My builder uses a DNJ channel plate and does a thorough job, so I know I will be happy with it.

I found a Goerend pan in stock to order, and getting it powder-coated locally, the drain in the middle, and making it not stronger than the case itself makes sense, as well as using a standard gasket and not dealing with RTV.

Have you noticed a difference between just babying it around and driving?

Big fan of DNJ.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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